Chipper Clutch Adjustment?


Sep 25, 2006
Vernon, B.C.
Any tricks of the trade for adjusting a chipper clutch?

Specifically I have a SP-211 Twin Disc in a Bandit 250. Do y'all actually rig up a spring to read pounds of pull? It says my hand lever should require between 118lbs and 156lbs of effort to engage? I've only had experience with a CnD prior to this chipper, any and all advice is apreciated.
I suppose you could use a torque wrench to see if it's engaging properly.

Can't really help ya on your style of clutch, mine's different.
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
The actual adjusting looks simple enough but just to know if I'm adjusting it to the proper tension is what I'm wondering about.
Squish, dont over think things.

The plate over the access hole tells you what to do.

Does the clutch pop out of gear? Is it slipping?
If not, leave it alone. Dont love it to death.
They are good clutches and dont require a lot of maintenance.

The friction disk in those is about an inch thick.

By the way, dont over grease the yoke and throw out bearing.

Check inside the access hole and see if there is a build-up of gease in the bottom of the bell housing.
Usually guys will overgrease these clutches in an insane effort to do a good job and end up filling up the bellhousing with 50 pounds or so of grease.
It is my assumtion that this is just a standard over center clutch mechanism albeit double disc ??

That being the case you just set them to "snap" in and out with a clean brisk defined snap.
It is my assumtion that this is just a standard over center clutch mechanism albeit double disc ??

That being the case you just set them to "snap" in and out with a clean brisk defined snap.

Often if you set them up that way Al, you end up stalling the engine. We used to call them 'bump' clutches because you would bump it into gear lightly several times to get things moving before engaging all the way
Well even on a tight set up you can still feather them a bit .I know on that Lindag of Tom's with a Ford 300 you can't just snap it in the first get go.It will stall that engine like a giant grabbed a hold of the shaft and squeezed.

Thers is a lot of inertia in that drive line of drum ,flywheel etc to get rolling from a stand still.
My 300's clutch is a feather-the-whole-way-in kinda deal, no snap to it. The replacement power unit assembly I bought has a snap in clutch.
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Ok cool, just in the manual it says that it could need multiple adjustments during break in. Just want to be prepared to if I have to. As far as greasing I'm following the recommended greasing interval of 10hrs for the one zerk on the clutch and 100hrs for the other. Everything else on the chipper straight from the bandit manual says that it cannot be overgreased, and I always wipe off the zerks before greasing and wipe off any excess grease that squirts out anywhere.
not too much grease up there. You probably have some time before you adjust......In 1300hrs, I have adjusted 3 times.....
I've the same clutch. Just as long as it takes a bit of effort to lock it in place, you're fine. I've probably gone a couple years without adjusting mine. Great clutch, worry free.
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
Thanks for the advice everyone. Yes I'm a nitpicker with this thing I want it to last I've read all my manuals front to back and plan on keeping up with my servicing. For me anyways it wasn't a small investment.

Thanks again always good to know I can get speedy, accurate and experienced advice.
the rare occasion i take it to the dealer i ask them to check the clutch settings