Cheaper winch line.

I thought of this thread today, was pulling a hard leaning cherry with the Kubota on a pulley redirect, when the pull got heavy the tires spun a bit on the snow cuz we were pulling slightly uphill. So we added the chipper winch also pulling on a redirect and Gibbs'd to the pull line, over went the cherry no problemo. We would have been in a tough spot without the winch.
 
Set the brake and chalk the wheels and don't worry about it.
 
Just standard wire rope, the second one on this machine. It's getting frayed and already been switched end for end so this thread is of interest. Just a steel hook/no thimble on the end. I've never had any issues with wire rope but always open to improvements.
 
Ya know, while we're on the topic, what are the pros and cons of steel vs synthetic, and pros and cons between various synthetics?

I can imagine synthetics could be more user friendly in the field but are they as durable? What about break safety? I've only used steel, I'd love to learn more.
 
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  • #35
The synthetic ive always used def wasnt as durable. We would cut off the end and i would re splice it a couple times a year. Pros maybe being able to run it through our pulleys, light weight, easy reparable, and possibly no spring back on snap, and no burrs.

Steel seems bomber, though harder to repair, dedicated redirects.

Other synthetics would have stretch compared to dyneema, which could be dangerous imo if a load was tensioned and recoiled with a smaller load in tow.
 
What do you mean by repairable? Do you mean to shorten it and put the hook back on?
 
Well then it sounds like I should stick with steel. Although one more synthetic advantage not mentioned is presumably less chipper damage if it god forbid ever got sucked in.
 
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  • #39
I ended up ordering 1/4 amsteel from tree stuff. Seems to be the same as the "black widow", though that seems to be a distributor applied code name of some sorts. Same specs. See how it does. Gotta pick up the winch tommorrow, set up a paint booth in the garage, have my bro lay some paint down, and start install next week. They wanted $400 too paint ,atch it btw. :O. Crazy.

Have two jobs lined up where its winchorama.
 
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  • #40
Heats pumping in the paint shop today. Aka, corner of garage. Hope to install tuesday.
 

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Cory, Amsteel is the best choice. No comparison. It might be less durable but its more friendly, as strong, easier to use, and safer among other things.

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  • #44
Im curious to see how the smaller stuff will hold up.

If its decent, can you guys get longer lengths? I want to put 250-300 on it ideally.

For every day use the asmteel held up well where i used to work. I remember breaking it working near a stone wall. That can be avoided by using a choker. I think ill have a special wear rope for these instances dragging through nastys.
 
Definitely use a choker if you're going to be skidding stuff. My friend that I work with in NM has a polyester cover on his winch line (not sure if the core is amsteel or spectra) that helps a lot with abrasion.
 
Using a choker to limit damage/abrasion makes sense but it would seem to add one more step to the process, slowing things considerably?

The safety of amsteel is a good selling point, but I don't think I've ever broken a steel winch line. If it is in decent shape the winch isn't strong enough.
 
I have seen some setups with the chain on the end. I like that idea. Using a choker works well too. An old climbing line will make a few dozens slings for nothing.
 
Yeah but when you try to winch the butt end into the tray/infeed chute, the end of the winch line will be at the winch fairleads (in other words, winched in as far as possible) but depending on the length of the chain or choker on the end, the log may not be winched into the tray yet, it may still be outside the tray. If the winch line is choked directly to the log then you winch the log right up to the fairleads thus getting it well into the chute.
 
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