Canola and chain brake function

[emr]

So this started on Facebook but several members here were involved in the conversation. I figured I'd share my photos here because I'm less likely to be ripped apart there than in Facebook..... I have been using canola oil as bar oil for the past several years without any real ware and tear issues that I've noticed. The topic of chain brake functionality came up and I tested our saw out by drop testing the inertia chain brake..... It failed. So I thought I would give the saw a fairly through cleaning. Here are some pics..... The drop test after cleaning worked just fine.

Thoughts and opinions are definitely welcome. I'm currently rethinking my use of canola, fwiw.

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[matdand]

What are you running from December to March?

 

[emr]

Canola..... At least for the past few years. This year we switched back to winter weight bar oil


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[SouthSoundTree-]

You aren't testing the scenario you think you are, I don't think.


If you compared a dirty canola saw to the same dirty petro saw, and saw a difference, it would be different, and comparable.

 

[matdand]

Canola..... At least for the past few years. This year we switched back to winter weight bar oil


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Really? We tried bio oil and had a lot of trouble with gelling during the winter.

 

[HolmenTree]

I don't run my saws from Dec to March as my tree service is shut down then.
But during tree season I do run canola in my main saws, in the ones that sit the most it's petroleum bar oil.
Here's the best protectant for chain brake mechanisms from gumming up with continued canola use. This stuff doesn't evaporate.

 

[emr]

You aren't testing the scenario you think you are, I don't think.


If you compared a dirty canola saw to the same dirty petro saw, and saw a difference, it would be different, and comparable.

What the heck did you just say??? Hahaha

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[emr]

Really? We tried bio oil and had a lot of trouble with gelling during the winter.

Our canola (while in the saw) would crystallize a bit in winter but it always thawed out after a while. The main problem was that the jug that we filled with would freeze up and take forever to thaw.

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[emr]

I don't run my saws from Dec to March as my tree service is shut down then.
But during tree season I do run canola in my main saws, in the ones that sit the most it's petroleum bar oil.
Here's the best protectant for chain brake mechanisms from gumming up with continued canola use. This stuff doesn't evaporate.

You guys got me hooked on Fluid Film last year for our chipper engine, but I never thought about using it on our saws....

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[SouthSoundTree-]

What the heck did you just say??? Hahaha

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Comparing a clean saw to a dirty saw doesn't test petroleum bar oil compared to canola bar oil. If you ran the saw dirty and the canola prevented the chainbrake from functioning, and also ran the saw dirty with petroleum oil, and observed (saw) a difference, you could attribute it to the oil.


I have never heard about this issue, before.

 

[emr]

I understand now. The conversation on Facebook was about how canola negatively affected the chain brake while petroleum/bio oil did much less. I probably should have mentioned this in my OP.

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[woodslinger]

I'm new to the canola concept, what's the benifit?

 

[emr]

Cheaper, more environmentally friendly, and supposed health benefits by not breathing the oil and having it on you.

But for me it's cheaper and the rest is just gravy.

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[SouthSoundTree-]

For me, its not breathing petro oil mist, the rest is gravy.

I don't know that its cheaper. I think I see more wear, minorly. Hard to say. Waaaay easier to get a new chain and bar than lung.

 

[NickfromWI]

We've been using bio-oil exclusively. Some problems with buildup , but none effecting the chain brake...yet


love
nick

 

[Merle Nelson]

Eric if I had pictures of my saws on petroleum bar oil only they would be as dirty or more so than yours.

Looks normal.

 

[emr]

I don't think the mess is really that bad, probably more gummy than traditional bar oil but that doesn't bother me. It's more of the brake malfunctioning that bothers me. I don't remember reading last time I did a deep clean on this saw so maybe the brake wouldn't have worked no matter what kind of oil I was using.

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[SouthSoundTree-]

I notice build-up on the cooling fins on my 200T. Keep an eye open to that.

 

[HolmenTree]

I'll give you a little advice here from my logging camp days.
If you rely on a chainsaw to make a living, maintain it. In our camp we had a shop to work on our saws after supper. Work bench, a little aerosol solvent and a air compressor blow gun will keep your saw like new for a long time.

 

[pete mctree]

I notice build-up on the cooling fins on my 200T. Keep an eye open to that.

I cannot see how the choice of oil can effect chainbreak function. They wear & weaken with use & eventually break, especially when the operator is fast to apply it, as opposed to waiting for the chain to stop first in normal usage
This is an example of neglect & using bio oil. It's like an immovable gingerbread & will kill a saw. As Holmen said - an air compressor is a must to clean saws with

 

[emr]

Our maintenance schedule is not what it should be. I don't see any way possible for us to clean our saws daily.... Unfortunate, but true. We do the best that we can but not perfect by any stretch.

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[treebilly]

I strive for once a week Eric. The other crews not so much. Once you do it a few times it only takes 15 minutes or so a saw. I don't use any type of degreaser. Just an air compressor and tools to tear it down. I do a real deep tear down once a year but it's still not a complete disassembly.
We've had problems with the chain brakes using regular b&c when the saws haven't been cleaned regularly.

 

[Raj]

Once a month blow down here.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

Logging runs saws much more hours in a day than residential work. Just try to do it as-needed, and time allows. IIRC, a small round file fits between the fins for some of the clean-out work. You can use your leaf blower a bit, too, in the field, I'd guess... Better than a sharp stick in the eye.

 

[Mick!]

Logging runs saws much more hours in a day than residential work. Just try to do it as-needed, and time allows. IIRC, a small round file fits between the fins for some of the clean-out work. You can use your leaf blower a bit, too, in the field, I'd guess... Better than a sharp stick in the eye.

True, a residential "loggers" saw would probably work a tenth of a forestry guys. Plus they spend rainy days warm and dry in the shed whilst their owner relaxes on the sofa.