Cannon Bars

[Climbinfool.]

I've been thinking of putting cannon bars on my larger saws 46 and 64. You think there worth the money ? Have a couple logging buddies who run them and they said the rails hold up much longer then others.

 

[Reddog]

If you can get Stihl es bars in the lengths you need, I am not sure the cannons are worth the extra cost.

 

[squisher]

Cannon bars are made up my way and I still don't run them. I tried them out and when I did the first bar chipped along the rail. I sent it back and they sent me a replacement free of charge, then it chipped. Then they wouldn't send me another one.

I mean chipped within a day or two of running it. I was choked.

Apparently I heard through the grapevine that they had a bad run and I must of gotten two of those bars, it was like they hardened those bars to much so they were brittle. I've heard lots of good things from others about them but I've never bought another one.

Stihl bars seem to last a good long while imo.

 

[wiley_p]

Greg, I have run Cannon for a long time. There was a spot where some harder rails were out there, but I have never had an issue. They are only a few bucks more. They don't flex as much as ES bars or Oregon bars, and they run chain longer.

 

[Climbinfool.]

That's what Eric was telling me also..... Think I'll buy a couple. Dave who made your light weight bars ?

 

[Reddog]

What are you seeing for prices on the Cannon's?
I couldn't find a 28" for much less than 200 in the super bar.

 

[stig]

Those are great bars, but they don't measure up to GB Titanium bars IMO.
Those are the longest lasting bars I've ever come across.

 

[wiley_p]

That's what Eric was telling me also..... Think I'll buy a couple. Dave who made your light weight bars ?

Them ones were Oregon. I went to the Stihl lightweight now on the falling saws. They are stiffer than the Oregon.

 

[squisher]

For the record my comments on the overhardened run were from more than a decade ago. But I'm a stubborn sob so they lost my business for life.

 

[HolmenTree]

Cannon makes good bars but a little too heavy for my liking. Over the years I had them build special order bars for me, carver bars for my little carver saws and salmon belly bars with 2 7/8" roller noses for my bikesaw.
But the best quality bar I have had built was one made by General, a bar company outside of Portland, Oregon. Just couldn't wear it out and it had a beautiful finish as fine as chrome.
General has long gone out of business...................I guess they made their bars a little too good.

 

[Burnham]

I'll NEVER wear this one out .

 

[flushcut]

Your bar guard looks a tad small.
I like the cannons that I have but they don't get much use. I bought them used off of ebay.

 

[Burnham]

I just keep that on there for skidding the damn bar tip around the shop floor or truck bed. Otherwise it's nearly a two man job to move it.

 

[squisher]

Two man job. pffft.

You sound like my employee who will make a starter kerf with a shorter bar even to get the 36" bar started level. And yes I razz him mercilessly too.

 

[Burnham]

 

[stig]

I'll NEVER wear this one out .

No, most likely it'll be the other way round.

Nice picture.

We need Fiona to post her "big bar picture " again, that is the best one I've ever seen.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Woodsman Pro is just a regular Cannon bar? I think under the paint you can read Cannon etched in the metal.

 

[Climbinfool.]

I have heard the same thing by some one else.. don't know how true it is though.

 

[Al Smith]

It might be a situation where Cannon has special runs for Baileys .They're kind of pricey .

 

[HolmenTree]

I was just looking at my new Baileys catalog and now have a new positive outlook for todays chainsaw industry.

Cannon is now marketing a "new " [old design actually] bar called the Cannon SuperMini. It looks like it has a Windsor MiniPro tip on it, but may be a GB mini tip. Anyways now once again we can buy a good professional solid body mini tip bar again. Windsor discontinued the MiniPro years ago and Oregon did the same with their PowerMatch replaceable tip DoubleGuard.
A few yrs back I was lucky enough to find a stock pile of brand new MiniPro bars and Oregon DoubleGuard tips, so I can keep on using these lightweight, smooth, safe and excellent bore cutting noses. Now Cannon has now stepped up to the plate.

Anyone who tells you radius reduced bar noses don't bore well doesn't know what their talking about. The small noses bore much better, "straight in" smoothness with no kickback and lots of speed.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Thanks for the heads up, Willard. I like a smaller nosed bar for when limbing, easier to manipulate. I assume that you lose some chain speed with the tighter radius. A Japanese make has them here, but they are hard nose, almost like a carving bar, and they charge for them like you are investing in a rare commodity.

 

[HolmenTree]

Thanks for the heads up, Willard. I like a smaller nosed bar for when limbing, easier to manipulate. I assume that you lose some chain speed with the tighter radius.

No chainspeed lost Jay. Chainspeed is determined in the "gearing" at the drive sprocket on the clutch drum not at the bar tip sprocket.

Only drawback with the smaller tips is durability compared to the full sized tips in the times when you should pinch the nose in the cut and the chain is forced to spin. The noses side plates squeezes the nose sprocket and the smaller bearings burn out faster then the larger ones would.

But like anything it's a learning curve where you learn not to do that when your bar is pinched.

 

[woodworkingboy]

My logic is that there would be greater resistance/drag on the chain with the tighter radius, resulting in a loss of speed, but it probably doesn't count.

 

[Jed]

For what it's worth to the thread: --not to derail the chain-speed thing: good chat--I bought a 52" Cannon for an extremely low price from a saw-miller, and it's got a mondo chip in the rail.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Maybe Cannon could repair it, Jed. Grind it down and regroove or sumpin?