F
Frans
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #51
What's to decide
:roll: Jeez, nothing to decide. Just trying to be fair.
no_bivy, I'll get it out to you sometime next week.
:roll: Jeez, nothing to decide. Just trying to be fair.
no_bivy, I'll get it out to you sometime next week.
I threw my hat in first but will be totally sanguine with He who lacks a bivy doing the reviewing. As I stated to begin with-I can find a place to test it in a month but I don't do that many big removals so probably wouldn't wring it out all that well.
Ah...I see that Frans reached a conclusion whaile I was typing. Excellent.
Ah...I see that Frans reached a conclusion whaile I was typing. Excellent.
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Frans
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #53
I thought about this for a bit and realized what made me take my time in answering folks.
The guy sent me the blockdriver with the expectation I would give it a fair shake, and get others to try it out.
I owe that to him.
I have kind of dropped the ball. Sent it to one guy and didn't get a real review in return, and now its been a long time.
So, my conscience was bothering me.
Anyway, No_bivy, you are more than welcome to try it out, when done respond with some kind of reasonable review, and then send it out to Greg Good.
He will mess with it a bit, and if you want to keep it, I will have him send it back.
You can then make a reasonable donation (your choice, I dont need or want to know what it is, or if it is money, how much) to the TreeHouse.
Thanks everyone for the replies
Frans
The guy sent me the blockdriver with the expectation I would give it a fair shake, and get others to try it out.
I owe that to him.
I have kind of dropped the ball. Sent it to one guy and didn't get a real review in return, and now its been a long time.
So, my conscience was bothering me.
Anyway, No_bivy, you are more than welcome to try it out, when done respond with some kind of reasonable review, and then send it out to Greg Good.
He will mess with it a bit, and if you want to keep it, I will have him send it back.
You can then make a reasonable donation (your choice, I dont need or want to know what it is, or if it is money, how much) to the TreeHouse.
Thanks everyone for the replies
Frans
will do
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Heh I wasn't trying to ruffle no one's feathers, just seemed like Bivy has done some real nice documentation of his work on here and I would like to see this thing action. Stumper I'm sure you would give a thorough review as well, just as I said Bivy has a proven track record of vids/pics on here.
High Scale
Trust fund lobbyist.
Feathers completely unruffled here. I too think that No-Bivy can do a proper review of it-My point was that, although I volunteered first, I didn't have any qualms about someone else doing a review. Sometimes it is hard to know what unspoken inflections are behind the typed words.
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Frans
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #58
Stumper, you said clearly you would be interested, but that you dont really handle trees all the time which would take this device and give it a workout.
So why explain? Its all good here, anyway
So why explain? Its all good here, anyway
Burnham
Woods walker
Well done, all. I'll look forward to John's review.
Perhaps I just lack imagination...but I can't recall a tree that I'd have used something like this on. I just cut big rounds on a bit of an angle to assist sliding them off.
Must admit though, that I've never had to work in the tree with 4 foot diameter rounds.
Perhaps I just lack imagination...but I can't recall a tree that I'd have used something like this on. I just cut big rounds on a bit of an angle to assist sliding them off.
Must admit though, that I've never had to work in the tree with 4 foot diameter rounds.
SteveBullman
TreeHouser
well b....you could cut 4ft rounds but you'd be slicing them pretty thin.....at least with the block driver you could cut them 3ft long and be able to drive them off.........that would certainly be a struggle by hand....no ones saying it cant be done.....this is just clearly easier on the body
Burnham
Woods walker
What you say makes sense, Steve.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
I would rip the chunk instead.
thattreeguy
TreeHouser
tell me if that thing is actually worthy id hate to throw one from uptop i carry 2 wedges and use a pull line if i need it...yes on block downs but i wondered about that tool..keep us posted.
T
TheTreeSpyder
Guest
i've all ways kinda been a gear nut. But mostly light gear, except block i guess.
A taller shape that holds weight; offers more leverage through the shape over the cg as a force point. Anything pulled over from ground like this, i like better with line over top, down back (spine) and hitched lower, to give more of a rolling/ flipping motion to the pull. sometimes making a trough/guide into the top far side of the load after the previous load's ramp(more on that later) for the "flippin' rope" to ride. The setup is a good auxilliary line for starting and finishing (inspecting) face with least effort. Also, fair for lowering block(on prussiked sling), and even bearing block's weight while anchoring said block.
On the push side quantity, i'm wit'RB. A small prybar; i favour a semi-truck's tire spoon personally- fits a kerf nicely, and it don't bend. A very small and tough package. If i needed longer, a hollow steel pipe over the end of the spoon. Have an old closet rod for that. i like better than wedge and hammer. Dowels are nice too. But mostly by leaning on bar, and pushing off on top of target, you can get tip; especially with assisted pull and moved pivot(more-later). Because then you have body weight/bounce + 2x effort; then multiplied times leverages of top side from pivot and prybar from pivot.
Both the push and pull on either side are then maximized, by working the center of the equation-move the pivot. On bigger stuff, i'd ramp down in more of a humboldt style. This starts with some of the weight already on the down side of the pivot and provides ramping for less sudden change-more control IMLHO. Also, the CG on your side of pivot (that is now less weight) has less leverage. Thus another double win-pivotal change in 1 move by altering both the equal and the opposite to advantage!
A taller shape that holds weight; offers more leverage through the shape over the cg as a force point. Anything pulled over from ground like this, i like better with line over top, down back (spine) and hitched lower, to give more of a rolling/ flipping motion to the pull. sometimes making a trough/guide into the top far side of the load after the previous load's ramp(more on that later) for the "flippin' rope" to ride. The setup is a good auxilliary line for starting and finishing (inspecting) face with least effort. Also, fair for lowering block(on prussiked sling), and even bearing block's weight while anchoring said block.
On the push side quantity, i'm wit'RB. A small prybar; i favour a semi-truck's tire spoon personally- fits a kerf nicely, and it don't bend. A very small and tough package. If i needed longer, a hollow steel pipe over the end of the spoon. Have an old closet rod for that. i like better than wedge and hammer. Dowels are nice too. But mostly by leaning on bar, and pushing off on top of target, you can get tip; especially with assisted pull and moved pivot(more-later). Because then you have body weight/bounce + 2x effort; then multiplied times leverages of top side from pivot and prybar from pivot.
Both the push and pull on either side are then maximized, by working the center of the equation-move the pivot. On bigger stuff, i'd ramp down in more of a humboldt style. This starts with some of the weight already on the down side of the pivot and provides ramping for less sudden change-more control IMLHO. Also, the CG on your side of pivot (that is now less weight) has less leverage. Thus another double win-pivotal change in 1 move by altering both the equal and the opposite to advantage!
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
N
NeTree
Guest
Not trying to rain on the parade, but before I'd spend that much time using what is basically a modified bumper jack to push a piece over, I'd just tie a line to it and let the ground crew pull it off. Heck, if it's big enough to warrant a jack, it's already got two or three wedges under it anyways.
What am I missing here?
What am I missing here?
SkwerI
Treehouser
I agree with Erik in principle, except that I'll cut a quick notch in it before I take the time to set a rope. Then just knock it over with the wedges. I try not to get too involved with any one cut because it's usually just not worth the extra time. If it's going to take 8-10 minutes to get everything all rigged up for one cut then I'm looking for faster ways to accomplish the same thing. I can cut and chunk 4-5 small pieces faster than rigging one big piece. And if I rig the big piece then I have to wait another 10 minutes for the ground crew to cut it up and get it processed before I can continue.
So tell me again why I want to rig this big piece if I'm getting paid to get it on the ground quickly? Rigging is slow, cutting is fast. I'll take a tree down in firewood size rounds before I rig anything.
So tell me again why I want to rig this big piece if I'm getting paid to get it on the ground quickly? Rigging is slow, cutting is fast. I'll take a tree down in firewood size rounds before I rig anything.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Depends on the size and set-up I'd say Brian. I am rigging down more and more bigger pieces. Because my ground crew doesn't need to cut them up because of the mini/bmg. So bigger pieces means less pieces to handle and faster clean-up. Also zero impact if I'm roping stuff down. If you're comparing just using a pull line with a groundy to bomb big chunks. Great if you've got the room and the ok to smash the living hell outta the ground. I only 'chunk' down smaller stuff now that's easy to toss. Also the wildcard factor. When cutting and tossing you gotta have your groundys keeping that spot clean otherwise wood starts to bounce all over the place.
N
NeTree
Guest
Who says you have to bomb them? The crew can still pull off big chunks AND be roping them down... a process that I visualize is still faster than using a bumper jack.
