F
wiley_p
Climbing Up
Mr. Sir, give Lonnie a call at ITE. 425-485-7017, He knows more about chippers, buckets, and chip trucks than anyone on the planet, very possibly. I'm wondering if there ain't really much wrong with the knives at all.
darkstar
Rockclimber/ treeclimber
Crikey , i sure do hope you get this one figured out soon.
Somethings telling me there is an obvious , yet hidden , hah underlying problemo.
What a PITA
Somethings telling me there is an obvious , yet hidden , hah underlying problemo.
What a PITA
J
Jonseredbred
Guest
It was a whole new housing, drum, cutter bar and knives set up at factory wasn't it??
Thor's Hammer
Wolfish. Sometimes Bites.
Brett, Have you had the knives tested yet? or were they original morbark knives that bent?
M
Mr. Sir
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #156
Yup, they put it together at the factory. We just set it on the frame and welded it up.
M
Mr. Sir
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #157
They were Morbark knives that bent. I'm sending them out for testing this week. Morbark is going to send me four new knives AFTER they test them. They think they may have a quality control problem.
Old Monkey
Treehouser
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2005
- Messages
- 8,764
Do any of your employees hate you for any reason?
M
Mr. Sir
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #159
Haha, my employees LOVE me! Just look at this guy:
Attachments
lumberjack
Young man on the go
On the 1/2" bolt, why not just weld it out? Drilling bolts sucks unless there is no better way.
I went out to the shop and found 2 bolts I recently welded out, the bigger was 10mm bolt that held the fan on the RG50. The smaller was one of a pair that holds the two halves of the tractor's hub/reduction box together when the wheel is off, I beleive they were 6mm.
An older picture, examples of removing 1/2" bolts from grinder's teeth.
I went out to the shop and found 2 bolts I recently welded out, the bigger was 10mm bolt that held the fan on the RG50. The smaller was one of a pair that holds the two halves of the tractor's hub/reduction box together when the wheel is off, I beleive they were 6mm.
An older picture, examples of removing 1/2" bolts from grinder's teeth.
M
Mr. Sir
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #161
Actually, with the carbide bit, it was quite a simple job. Only took about a minute to drill and another minute to back out with the easy-out.
Ax-Man
Don't make me chop you
Brett, did you ever figure what the problem was??? I would be mad as
after going through all that work and have the same problem resurface, I seen the crane thread you posted and it looks like your chipper is back on the job.
I found it interesting that only the right side of the knife hit the anvil from the pic you posted. In trying to track down our little noise problem I found we don't have a knife to anvil problem plenty of clearance .050 which is about right. But the same right side knife you showed also was a tad tighter on clearance on my machine. I haven't adjusted the anvil yet but the next time we are going to get into this throughly.
After listening to it many times we have came to the conclusion it is not really a metallic tick like a knife hitting the anvil but more of a rattling metal sound tick. Seems to coming from around the bearing area but not the bearing itself.
Backing up in the thread, Steve mentioned an annoying tick and could not find it and tried many ways to isolate it but couldn't find it till a bearing failed. I have talked to our dealer's head mechanic about our little problem and using pry bars to check for slop. He told me that using a pry bar is a waste of time. A bearing will fail long before you would be able to get any play out of it using a pry bar. Visual inspection is best or just plain replacement after a certain length of time.
According to this mechanic there might be some shims in or around the bearing. I didn't quite get what he meant by this or how it could work. Anyway sometimes these move with the bearing and shaft other times they don't and make a noise that comes from the area around the bearing. If this is the case then I don't need to be concerned. I'll find out about this more when we grease the bearings and can tell better what he was talking about.
Darin asked me about anti-seize on the knife bolts. Years ago I would have said yes, but today I am not all that big a fan of anti-seize. In same applications I still use it like on spark plugs and lug bolts but not on chipper or stumper cutter bolts. I prefer to keep them clean and rust free with a wire wheel and use 90 wt gear lube on them and replace them on a regular basis.
I am just going to toss this out here since we are talking chippers and possible bearing failure. This has to do with the power or drive side of the chipper mainly. Keeping proper belt tension prolongs bearing life and is fairly easy to check. How many of you check to see if the clutch pulley and drum pulley are in line using a known straight edge like a 2x4 that isn't warped of course and butt it up against the two pulley's to see that they are in line a and the power belt is running straight???
after going through all that work and have the same problem resurface, I seen the crane thread you posted and it looks like your chipper is back on the job. I found it interesting that only the right side of the knife hit the anvil from the pic you posted. In trying to track down our little noise problem I found we don't have a knife to anvil problem plenty of clearance .050 which is about right. But the same right side knife you showed also was a tad tighter on clearance on my machine. I haven't adjusted the anvil yet but the next time we are going to get into this throughly.
After listening to it many times we have came to the conclusion it is not really a metallic tick like a knife hitting the anvil but more of a rattling metal sound tick. Seems to coming from around the bearing area but not the bearing itself.
Backing up in the thread, Steve mentioned an annoying tick and could not find it and tried many ways to isolate it but couldn't find it till a bearing failed. I have talked to our dealer's head mechanic about our little problem and using pry bars to check for slop. He told me that using a pry bar is a waste of time. A bearing will fail long before you would be able to get any play out of it using a pry bar. Visual inspection is best or just plain replacement after a certain length of time.
According to this mechanic there might be some shims in or around the bearing. I didn't quite get what he meant by this or how it could work. Anyway sometimes these move with the bearing and shaft other times they don't and make a noise that comes from the area around the bearing. If this is the case then I don't need to be concerned. I'll find out about this more when we grease the bearings and can tell better what he was talking about.
Darin asked me about anti-seize on the knife bolts. Years ago I would have said yes, but today I am not all that big a fan of anti-seize. In same applications I still use it like on spark plugs and lug bolts but not on chipper or stumper cutter bolts. I prefer to keep them clean and rust free with a wire wheel and use 90 wt gear lube on them and replace them on a regular basis.
I am just going to toss this out here since we are talking chippers and possible bearing failure. This has to do with the power or drive side of the chipper mainly. Keeping proper belt tension prolongs bearing life and is fairly easy to check. How many of you check to see if the clutch pulley and drum pulley are in line using a known straight edge like a 2x4 that isn't warped of course and butt it up against the two pulley's to see that they are in line a and the power belt is running straight???
lumberjack
Young man on the go
I eyeballed the pulleys on my chipper when we replaced the engine, which, IMO, is more accurate than most 2x4's assuming you can site along the flat face or back of the pullies.
We still antiseez the bolts on the grinder's teeth. Using Green Teeth, the bolts could be on there for quite a while.
We still antiseez the bolts on the grinder's teeth. Using Green Teeth, the bolts could be on there for quite a while.
Ax-Man
Don't make me chop you
Ha, I would agree LJ, considering the quality of wood that is sold these days. But , like I said, I would use a known straight edge which could also be a piece of some kind of steel.
M
Mr. Sir
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #166
At this point it appears to be a knife problem. The testing will determine if the knives were built to specs or not. I suspect that there is a problem with the quality of the steel, hence the bending. The chipper is back in service, but I have given strict instructions that nothing over 10" diameter is to be chipped. I painted four 10-inch diameter circles on the chipper chute as a guide for the operators. Nothing larger than that circle is to go into the machine. So far, so good. I'm still awaiting an answer from Morbark regarding my warranty claim. I guess they're waiting for the results of the knife testing.
M
Mr. Sir
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #168
Yes.
