back in the Woods

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  • #26
Al Smith said:
Now I wonder what would happen if once it does dry if it could be fed linseed oil like they did the cigar store figurenes of a bygone era .Maybe Jay would know ????

If nothing is done it surely would split although not a bad as oak .Fact is the little carriage barn on the place my mother owns is timber framed from sugar maple and it has held up surprisingly well for being build in 1919 .
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We got 2 good sized burls off of one of the trees as well... Do those need some sort of "oil", or anchor seal, or whatever you use for that stuff?

Gary
 
I don't know what you do with those big lumps,burls, whore bumps . Stig is the burl expert .

Way back when I was kid and a Boy Scout ,Boys Life had an article of making what they called a "noggin " out of burl .The noggin was just a wooden cup . Anyways they suggested soaking it in something and I almost think it was linseed oil .
 
Great looking old 044. The new 441 don't hold a candle in the wind to their forefathers. I sure do miss the woods. A friend of mine carves bowls out of burls and he uses linseed oil on them throughout the carving process. he says the best thing is to leave the bark on them and paint the bare spots and let them air drie for aloooooooooong time.
 
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  • #32
gf beranek said:
Watch that back or yours, Mang.
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Thanks Ger... I was on Vitamin I for the last few days. The back didn't bother me at all. But I actually planned my moves, and took my time. Funny what a little age and experience does to a cat when you finally realize you're not 25 anymore. :wall:

On a side note... We only had to wedge one tree as it started to "sit back" on the saw in the back cut. Funny though... it must have been teetering on the holding wood. Only 2 whacks on the wedge and over it went. No fancy bore cuts or nothin'... standard 3 cut drops with a Humboldt... :)

Gary
 
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  • #33
Timber Jack said:
Great looking old 044. The new 441 don't hold a candle in the wind to their forefathers. I sure do miss the woods. A friend of mine carves bowls out of burls and he uses linseed oil on them throughout the carving process. he says the best thing is to leave the bark on them and paint the bare spots and let them air drie for aloooooooooong time.
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Thanks mang! :)

Welcome to the Treehouse... :thumbup:

Gary
 
For lumber logs roofing tar works real well to prevent checks .Make sure you cut a cookie off each end though before it's milled else a bandsaw will pull the tar right through the wood with it . That method wouldn't work real good on a table slab or a burl .
 
just about anything works well to seal the ends from checking, tar, thick paint, Elmer's glue....and keep direct sunlight and the rain off it. If you do get some big cracks starting, make a big stable out of a spike or something, and keep the crack from spreading. Just hammer it into the end grain. They might sell those over there, readily available here, a two ended nail bent into a wide U.
 
Much heavier duty than a fencing nail or a stable. A big spike, and the spread between the u is about four inches.
 
T and G Ellis a local log exporter has a patended anti split made of hard plastic you hammer in the end of the log .What's neat about is is the fact you can run it right though a sawmill without causing damage to the band or blade, whichever .

Speaking of the Ellis bros' ,as I stepped outside yesterday to have a smoke six loads of great looking oak peelers were inbound for their log yard .I have no idea how much hardwood passes through that yard but I know it's a bunch .
 
You make that 044 look like a 260 Gary! You need an 066, lol.
 
Hey Gary i gotta question, does a full wrap make felling easier? I've thought about putting one on my 372 and my 460 because i seem to do a lot of big oak removals down here in the land of small trees.
 
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  • #46
bill22 said:
Hey Gary i gotta question, does a full wrap make felling easier? I've thought about putting one on my 372 and my 460 because i seem to do a lot of big oak removals down here in the land of small trees.
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Only if you do a lot of cuttin' clutch side up. If you look at the fist pic I posted where I'm lookin' up while in the back cut... I'm cuttin' clutch side up because it was the only place I could stand to fall that tree. I could see where it would be a help while up in a tree on large removals. Just for something else to grab on to. A lot of guys that do tree work in residential settings don't like them because it's harder to ALAP stumps with them. I have a 3/4 wrap on my 044. I prefer the 3/4 wraps over the full wraps... why? I have no idear... just do. :)

Gary
 
bill22 said:
Hey Gary i gotta question, does a full wrap make felling easier? I've thought about putting one on my 372 and my 460 because i seem to do a lot of big oak removals down here in the land of small trees.
Click to expand...

They get in the way of the bar nuts and slow down the process of removing the side cover. They get in the way when cutting in tight crotches unless you like leaving stubs. I have a brand new full wrap for a 372, it came on the saw new and I swapped it out before I ever ran the saw. Bailey's sells them for $90 plus shipping, you can have mine for $50.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=HVP+503+62+86+71&catID=411
 
Wrap handles are a west coast thing and understandabley so with cutting on the slopes etc . Every one time west coaster I own has full wraps including an 048 Stihl .
 
Thanks Brian, I'll get up with you later about the handle,it just seems like it would make life easier for since i don't flush cut stumps.
 
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