What is this guy using for his safety rope setup?

[Grendel]

Chafe sleeve is to keep your rope from grinding against the tree, ingesting grit, and potentially damaging the tree. It protects the rope and tree from the friction generated in a Double Rope system. I like the leather ones.

 

[GemCutter]

...Trying to see what he's using for his second safety rope and rope grab - as opposed to the flipline. Unfortunately they don't go into any explanation. There are fairly clear shots of the hardware at about 6:05 and 14:12.

I'm not sure which brand, but he's using hand ascender. I'm not very experienced, but that would not be something I would use. All you can do to let rope out is take the weight off of it and release it. No way to gently let rope out with your weight on it.

You'd be much better off with a simple self tending pulley and hitch setup.

My inexpensive version...

View attachment 56331

...and the pricey version...http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=296&item=1822#

So this does essentially the same thing as a Hitch Climber?

Is the chafe sleeve to protect the static/fixed end of the line from the pulley and friction hitch rubbing against it?

Is there any inherent superiority of a spliced end vs a knotted end as you have here?

I think of the Hitch Climber as a climbing system which you can use to advance and descend from ground to tie in point.

The white rope in the video was being used as what I would consider to be a long adjustable length lanyard for positioning and as second tie in point. As he had it set up with a hand ascender, there would be no way to use it alone (without the spikes) to make short moves up or down.

While the lanyard I pictured shares a similar hitch and pulley as a hitch climber system, it is not meant to be a stand alone climbing system. It is used for a second tie in point and work positioning as the guy in the video was using the white rope/hand ascender and the orange (?) lanyard. The advantage it has over his white rope/hand ascender is that it can be adjusted shorter or longer with one hand and it can be used to advance or descend short distances while still weighted.

The chafe sleeve is to protect the rope where it goes over a limb or crotch and also reduces the friction when you advance of descent to fine tune your work position.

A spliced hitch cord has the advantage of compactness while the knotted version has the advantage of adjustability and allows you to fine tune the length for a perfect hitch and is also a lot less expensive. Once I have dialed in length for a given application, I sometimes buy the spliced version.

That's my "noob rec climber" take on it. Someone please correct me if I got anything wrong.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Can you post some pictures/ descriptions of the trees you're up against? A 60' conifer is a lot different to remove than a 30' tall tree that's 45' wide. Wide open drop zones? Obstacles?

If you want basic, you can buy a climbing rope and a rigging rope, and a couple snaps/ biners on top of your spurs (presumably, but not necessary) lanyard, and saddle, and do it old school.

If you want fancy, now is a good time for climbing trees.

 

[Robert P]

Can you post some pictures/ descriptions of the trees you're up against? A 60' conifer is a lot different to remove than a 30' tall tree that's 45' wide. Wide open drop zones? Obstacles?

Possibly at some point - at the moment there's a lot of potato vine (really annoying and prolific in Florida) obscuring the view - the first order of business is going to be clearing access to them.

I believe the taller trees are pine of some variety, there are also some scrub oaks. Some of the oaks I want to take down altogether, some I just want to cut back.

If you want basic, you can buy a climbing rope and a rigging rope, and a couple snaps/ biners on top of your spurs (presumably, but not necessary) lanyard, and saddle, and do it old school.

If you want fancy, now is a good time for climbing trees.

From my research I've concluded I need more than one way both due to the different configurations of the trees and for tree health - i.e. avoiding spiking up a tree you don't plan to cut down. I'll probably go with spikes for the taller trees, probably some variety of the hitch climber for the shorter oaks that have more spread out branch systems. I was watching video of the HAAS ascender - clever bit of engineering that looks like a great way to deal with the oaks. It also occurs to me I should also bring a double rope rig up into the tree even if I spike up for quicker descent for bathroom and other breaks.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

You should have a climbing system with you, or better yet, in use, for emergencies. If you spike your leg, you are going to have hard time spiking down. An overhead climb line would be the best situation all around. You want both Fall Arrest and Work Positioning in your systems. Spurs and a lanyard can be a bark-highway down a tree if you've spurred out.

PS you should learn to pee from the tree. Part of the trick is not to get chips in your pants.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Buy the books suggested, study the books, decide where you feel you would like to start based on good solid information. Learn what you need to know before you even purchase the gear to enter the tree. Buy just enough for the style you would climb but could possibly expand on if you discover this IS something you may want to do more of.
Start with gear that is fine with Ddrt and can merge into SRT access once you get comfy and build your strength up into climbing. Practice your spur climbing on trees you are going to eventually kill.
The books will teach you your knots and hitches. Practice them until you don't even have to think tying them. THEN go up a tree. You will need these knots and hitches up there. Best know you can tie them in a pinch.
So much to learn and do in this trade. Best start by reading the guide lines written by those that are leaders in the industry. Jeff Jepson, Jerry Beranek two name two. Aside from your Bible that was given to you on you confirmation day, these are as important for your life in this trade.
Listen to the elders here that have been doing this a long time.
Listen with open mind and ear to critiquing and learn from it.
Learn to enter a tree with a flip line and a split tail Ddrt system before you even start SRT. Basics... Then progress as you find your levels of comfort and confidence. Just adjusting spur straps and leg straps can make a difference in your day from miserable to wonderful. Not to mention dialling in your system.
This is the best advise I can give you.
There are things in my early part of a career with out mentors that should have cost me either life or limb and I was very fortunate with probably a lot of dumb luck. Then the light came on, there has to be a better, safer way.
Then I found this place and listened.
Always listen to your gut feeling as you enter this world of being aloft. Always take heed to being tired and stop... If you get a bad feeling.. often it is in good judgement to take heed...
Just listen to these guys and your gut instinct. DO the research. Learn the ropes, then act.
Start low and slow...

 

[Robert P]

PS you should learn to pee from the tree. Part of the trick is not to get chips in your pants.

 

[Husabud]

Excellent Stephen!

 

[Bermy]

PS you should learn to pee from the tree. Part of the trick is not to get chips in your pants.

Huh, s'alright for you guys...

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Freshette, Fi, Lady J, Shenis, many choices, Fi, many choices.

 

[Robert P]

Freshette, Fi, Lady J, Shenis, many choices, Fi, many choices.

Nature has more than one call. I haven't found a carabiner that's right for holding a roll of Charmin...