what does my new ms200t need??

Yeah, Ed isn't exactly speedy. It's almost like you need to plan your saw needs 6 months in advance. By the time he gets your saw back to you, you've already replaced it.

I pulled a real stupid move today. Left a 200T on top of the truck, lost it in traffic on the way home. Some lady pulled up next to me blowing her horn, told me I lost a saw about a mile back. Went back and couldn't find it. Although in that part of town, it was probably scooped up on the second bounce.

So I stopped at the saw shop and bought a replacement on my way home. Took the muffler screen out and removed the high speed jet limiter as soon as I got it on the bench. Fueled it up, fired it up, dialed it in at about 15K rpm and put it in the truck for work tomorrow. Any sort of 'break in' is already done, it's a work saw now. It will last me a good 5 years or more unless I lose it off the back of the truck. :roll: My other two are 3 and 5 years old, they both run great.
 
Yeah, Ed isn't exactly speedy. It's almost like you need to plan your saw needs 6 months in advance. By the time he gets your saw back to you, you've already replaced it.

I pulled a real stupid move today. Left a 200T on top of the truck, lost it in traffic on the way home. Some lady pulled up next to me blowing her horn, told me I lost a saw about a mile back. Went back and couldn't find it. Although in that part of town, it was probably scooped up on the second bounce.

So I stopped at the saw shop and bought a replacement on my way home. Took the muffler screen out and removed the high speed jet limiter as soon as I got it on the bench. Fueled it up, fired it up, dialed it in at about 15K rpm and put it in the truck for work tomorrow. Any sort of 'break in' is already done, it's a work saw now. It will last me a good 5 years or more unless I lose it off the back of the truck. :roll: My other two are 3 and 5 years old, they both run great.


That is the absolute worst feeling!
 
Any Stihl dealers here or anyone else know off the top of their head the max rpm spec for the 200T? The new one seems a bit fast although I have the high jet over a turn out.
 
Any Stihl dealers here or anyone else know off the top of their head the max rpm spec for the 200T? The new one seems a bit fast although I have the high jet over a turn out.

14K
 
Told ya it seemed fast! I'll reset it in the morning before I put it to work, and check it again after the first tank of fuel.
 
BUT

You did take the mufler screen out. I would run it at 14.5-14.8. listen for it 4 stroing and all is well. lose that 4 stroke sound and danger comes real fast.......for the saw.
 
I pulled a real stupid move today. Left a 200T on top of the truck, lost it in traffic on the way home. Some lady pulled up next to me blowing her horn, told me I lost a saw about a mile back. Went back and couldn't find it. Although in that part of town, it was probably scooped up on the second bounce.

You done this before? Awhile back?
 
I have also heard the 200t doesn't respond as well to mods. Yes, it will respond, but not with the gains normally associated with modding a saw. I think that is where the misunderstanding lies.
Most saws gain 25% with a muffler mod, and another 30ish% with a good port job. Thats a lot of gains.
A 200t might get 15% with both.
.
You have to remember you are likely only dealing with maybe 2.5 horsepower to begin with if that much .

For all I know the thing might be pretty maxed out in stoke form . Hopefully I'll get on it a few weeks or at least by fall .I'll know more then after I disect it .
 
I polished the inlet and outlet on one of my 020ts, fitted new rings and drilled a hole in the muffler.

The other had the same treatment but I enlarged the exhaust port a little, both run very well.
 
Well,don't feel so all alone.You are not the first one that bounced a saw off the pavement nor will you be the last .Chit happens .
 
You know how sometimes you get a saw that's just a bit stronger than most? No reason other than variations in manufacturing, or maybe I just got lucky. But my new 200T frikkin' RIPS! It's not even broken in, but from the very first tank it just feels stronger than normal. I did another big oak removal this morning and I was making 12"-14" cuts and it never hesitated. This was on the 1st and 2nd tank of fuel!
:D
 
You know how sometimes you get a saw that's just a bit stronger than most? No reason other than variations in manufacturing, or maybe I just got lucky.
:D
That remains to this day a great mystery . I've talked to goodly amount of engine builders who know considerabley more than I who will say that very same thing . Even with all the years of knowledge that some have nobody can put a finger onto why that happens . Maybe there is a saw genie .:lol:
 
Don't feel bad Brian, did the same darn thing with our 200 three years ago. Left the saw in the open cage of our Elliott and it bounced out. Never did find itafter much backtracking. It hurts to have to buy a new one because of a stupid mistake like that.

I did the same thing with a 041 Super about three years ago. It was sitting on a open door of my service truck, got in the darn truck and took off with the saw sitting on the open door or in this case a shelf. Didn't notice it because the door is below the level of the mirror on the passenger side till someone shouted a door was open:X:X. Hunted and hunted for that saw but never found it.

I miss that saw to this day because I bought it brand new and was one of my first Sthils. It sat idle for many years because I didn't know how to fix it. I got it running again and was using it on jobs. Powerful old workhorse.
 
I just put a 019 bar + chain on my ms200 and its 14'' with a tapered tim andso far so good
 
Without a tach is possible to accurately compensate for removing the muffler screen? Perhaps an approximate number of turns out? Thanks!
 
You don't need a tach nor is there a set amount of turns or fractions there of . Wind that puppy up ,after it's warmed up .Adjust the high speed until it just slightly "4 strokes " in essence running slightly rich .

If you did it correctly the saw might seem to be a little slow until you get into the cut a tad bit then it leans right out and gets with it . At some point in the cut the load will decrease and it then appears to slow down a bit .

I know that may seem to be a stupid way to do it but all that "4 stroking " gets turned into power at some point in the cut . Otherwise it could possibley be running too lean which could damage the engine . Better to be just slightly rich than too lean .
 
The base settings are indicated right on the saw. The main jet should be 3/4 of a turn out and the low jet should be 1 turn out. You will have to remove the limiter collar on the main jet in order to find your starting point. I've also noticed that the new carbs seem to have smaller main jets, opening them up past 1 turn doesn't seem to affect the mixture any. As mine is getting broken in, it's starting to run a bit lean and I had to richen up the low jet to help compensate for the lack of response on the main jet.
 
maybe it requires the drill bit?8)
 

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what are the specs on that there hole? looks like you put some time into engineering that modification:P
 
OK, I am goingto ask the $10, 000 question.

Where did this quote term " 4 stroking" come from anyway in relationship to saw tuning. I know what it means but I never heard of this catch phrase 4 stroking till I got involved in these chainsaws on the net.

Am I missing something somewhere along the line?? I just fail to see how a proper tuned 4 stroke engine has anything to do with adjusting a chainsaw carb.
 
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