Trimming a previously topped tree

Treeaddict

Treehouser
Joined
Aug 16, 2021
Messages
2,560
Location
Harford county MD
A licensed Maryland Tree Expert topped 2 silver maples at my parents house- twice. The last time this was done was about 2-4 years ago. The first time, as far as they remember, was 10-15 years ago.

My plan it to do an end weight reduction and dead wooding. There are no central leaders and I don’t trust many of the leaders with a TIP necessarily. I could rent a lift (experienced on them, cost money) or possibly spike prune (spike prune is free) I’m thinking spike pruning is safer and I’ll just keep my climb line choking the leader in front of me. I’d hate to spike them but they are already torn up from the toppings. There’s no other trees to tie into. I’m not removing them because they are better than nothing or a sapling that my parent won’t live to see grow up. Am I nuts for thinking about spurs on a trim?
 

Attachments

  • BFC3FE48-B6D1-4151-92B1-E42A42FAEC25.jpeg
    BFC3FE48-B6D1-4151-92B1-E42A42FAEC25.jpeg
    4.2 MB · Views: 13
  • 3152E7BE-4A4D-4171-9354-80843618BD15.jpeg
    3152E7BE-4A4D-4171-9354-80843618BD15.jpeg
    3.9 MB · Views: 13
I'm not seeing where spikes would get you farther than rope. Rope would be more of a hassle to set, but you could hit a small crotch, and use a canopy tie around the main stem(not the second growth). Maybe run a second line for insurance. Maples seem to look for a reason to rot. I'd be leery of spiking a keeper, and giving them an excuse to start a rot pocket.
 
i would not use spikes. maybe 2 climbing systems as needed but it looks like the shoots are not that long. maybe i would use my fiskars pole snips to reduce the whole canopy a bit. or tie in below the „head“ and redirect above.

would be interesting to document your process and really ask yourself what you want to achieve. i am assuming a „normal“ looking canopy?
 
Yeah , the cred test of climbwork ... access with or without spikes. Extra time setting line(s) usually does it for me , though I do miss my spikes on those jobs
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
I think you guys talked me out of spiking it. If I have 2 lines set as well as a flip line around the leader I’m climbing that should be plenty safe. I’m just nervous because I’ve never been a topped tree before and I’ve seen many videos and pictures of the rot that sets in around the epicormic shoots where the topping cuts took place.

The plan it to leave one or 2 epicormics at the ends but remove the others to reduce weight. Any deadwood will come out as well. I’m doing this because that’s what many professionals that I trust do to prevent failures due to the rot and extra weight

I love the loop runners for foot holds idea!

I’m gonna order some shorter climbing lines (100’ and 75’- ordering 200’ and cutting it) I’m sick of cycling my 150’ and 200’ ropes on small trees like this.

I’ll give the pole saws a workout as well, maybe. We’ll see.

Thank you all for taking the time to answer!!
 
Just long enough, plus a little more, climbing lines are great.



Consider that if you choose to remove a whole lead, or reduce a lead below the 'topping' cuts, you can investigate the decay at the topping cuts.

Looks like some resprouts number up to 5 and 6 per leader. As the tree has had a lot of canopy/ photosynthetic potential removed twice, a lighter approach may suit things better, with a revisit next year or the year after. Rather then remove all but one leader, choose which will be the permanent leader, remove some of the other sprouts/ leaders, and reduce some temporarily retained leaders (pole work?

Pruning Stik® Extendable Tree Pruner (7.9'-12') | Fiskars - https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/gardening-and-yard-care/products/tree-pruners/pruning-stik-extendable-tree-pruner-79-12-92406935k ), depending on the number growing from each 'topping' cut.
 
Last edited:
I’m gonna order some shorter climbing lines (100’ and 75’- ordering 200’ and cutting it) I’m sick of cycling my 150’ and 200’ ropes on small trees like this.
Check it out...


If you see something you like, jump on it. First come, first served, and that's it.
 
Just long enough, plus a little more, climbing lines are great.



Consider that if you choose to remove a whole lead, or reduce a lead below the 'topping' cuts, you can investigate the decay at the topping cuts.

Looks like some resprouts number up to 5 and 6 per leader. As the tree has had a lot of canopy/ photosynthetic potential removed twice, a lighter approach may suit things better, with a revisit next year or the year after. Rather then remove all but one leader, choose which will be the permanent leader, remove some of the other sprouts/ leaders, and reduce some temporarily retained leaders (pole work?

Pruning Stik® Extendable Tree Pruner (7.9'-12') | Fiskars - https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/gardening-and-yard-care/products/tree-pruners/pruning-stik-extendable-tree-pruner-79-12-92406935k ), depending on the number growing from each 'topping' cut.

Approx 50% of trees I pruned in the UK had been subject to heavy pruning. Trees / re growth can be stronger than you think, species dependent.

My method - say 7 new leaders from the head. Choose one which you wish to be the new leader. Remove, say 3 of the skankier/longer/unwanted looking ones and reduce the others to the length of the leader you haven’t touched (if needed).

Again species dependent.
 
You can also tie into more than one of the growth. Loop runners are easiest. Girth hitched and run rope through the crabs on them. Or you can just clove hitch the rope around each one, terminating the end with a running bowline where you started, or where you feel its strongest.
If you have an SRT hybrid, you can actually tie in just below you on larger wood and advance your tie in above that with a loop runner. Or a few for that matter. Load share with an E Brake.
 
Back
Top