The Truck Thread

I've got a challenge for you Ford guys. 2002 F350.

Challenge #1- Radio must turn off when I turn the key off. Why the hell do they think I want the F****** radio on with the key off? I'd turn it to ACC if I did.

Challenge #2- Dome light must not come on unless I open the door, and must go off when I close the door. Dome light also must NOT come on when I shut the ignition off. If I want the dome light on, I'll turn it on, or open the F****** door.

Challenge #3- Either make this thing put out power equivalent to its fuel consumption, or provide economy in line with it's lack of ambition. 9 mpg? Are you serious? The Hemi in our farm truck gets 12 and it runs like a race car, my truck can't spin a tire on an ice patch.

Dang you're hard to please man. I can't help you out because:

1. I like that the radio will stay on until I open a door.

2. I like that the dome light automatically turns on when I turn the truck off.

3. I've got the same motor I think as I remember you saying you had 5.4l. I've never checked the economy but it seems decent and with opening it up with intake and exhaust it has enough power for me without allowing me to snap the other components of the drivetrain.

Sorry, I'm sure someone else has the answers you're looking for though.
 
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Challenge #1- Radio must turn off when I turn the key off. Why the hell do they think I want the F****** radio on with the key off? I'd turn it to ACC if I did.

My thinking is that they were thinking if you were listening to the music, you would want to KEEP hearing it as long as possible, or else you would simply turn off the radio. I can see it.

Challenge #2- Dome light must not come on unless I open the door, and must go off when I close the door. Dome light also must NOT come on when I shut the ignition off. If I want the dome light on, I'll turn it on, or open the F****** door.

My Silverado has the option to turn that on or off.
 
I've got a challenge for you Ford guys. 2002 F350.

Challenge #1- Radio must turn off when I turn the key off. Why the hell do they think I want the F****** radio on with the key off? I'd turn it to ACC if I did.

Challenge #2- Dome light must not come on unless I open the door, and must go off when I close the door. Dome light also must NOT come on when I shut the ignition off. If I want the dome light on, I'll turn it on, or open the F****** door.

Challenge #3- Either make this thing put out power equivalent to its fuel consumption, or provide economy in line with it's lack of ambition. 9 mpg? Are you serious? The Hemi in our farm truck gets 12 and it runs like a race car, my truck can't spin a tire on an ice patch.

While we are at it, let's go back to flooring the gas pedal once before cranking the key to set the choke and high idle! LOL
 
This gasser is calling my name and driving me crazy.. Probably could have it for about 1800.00. Pre Smog as well for CA. If it was a crew cab it would already be in the driveway.

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Well I'm getting my bucket truck woes.

A week or so ago new batts and a alternator. No biggies the batteries were long overdue and cooked the alternator once the temp dropped is my theory.

This morning, pinion rotation gear on the house of the boom sheared two gears. Ouch, got the booms straight and cradled and wrenching again I have been doing. Now my options appear to be $1700 through the versalift dealer in BC or have a new one custom machined, hoping for around $1000 maybe, I'll find out on that in the morning. Either way blows the rest of the week apart as far as I can tell. If I chip into it I'm thinking I may run into issues trying to dump when I raise the boom up as I have no rotation gear/motor in place right now. Kinda pissed but what do you do? I'm also kind of worried about why the gears sheared? I hope there's no bearing issues, gonna have to read up on whether there's procedures to check for that.
 
That's why I have a bubble level mounted on the back of my truck and set my truck up level with the outriggers. Swinging the boom uphill is a lot of stress on the rotation gears and they aren't designed to handle an excessive amount of side loading. Best of luck getting it fixed. I just spent $4K on my truck last month so I can sympathize.
 
Time Manufacturing who make Versalift. Don't know and won't/can't find out what exact type of metal the shaft/gear is made from. It's from a sub-contractor they say who won't give them the information, like it's some kind of f-cking trade secret or something. My fab guy will finger out the best type to use but I had hoped to find out exactly what type the original was.

Anyone got any guesses?
 
Picked this truck up while I was in Cali. 2001 F550 ex-city truck with 70k. Was looking all around for the 7.3L, found a bunch of 6.0 but not being mechanically gifted I decided to steer clear.

jp:D
 

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Squish, if you can get me the parts, I can hit them with the Niton gun and tell you exactly what they are.
 
I appeciate the offer. It looks like I'm going the route of ordering a whole new gear box. I'm worried about what may have caused this failure to happen in the 1st place in regards to the other bearings/gear in there. For $2850 I get everything new, seems like the way to go. I talked to the guy who I bought my truck from and he suggested that route as he said by the time you start buying this bit or that you can spend a fair bit more than just replacing the whole box. Plus it's all ready to go and new. So looks like I'm down for a week. Lousy timing but heh what can you do?
 
Drop back and punt, man.

Glad you'll be mobile again, but man... that's a lotta lettuce.
 
I set as level as I can I'm pretty good with my equipment as far as inspecting/maintaining. I imagine from what I see around I spend quite a bit closer attention to it than most. It has been awhile though since I had checked the house gears/fasteners over. Everything on the boom/truck will be getting a good inspection/lube with this downtime.

I'm wondering how often or what criteria other's on here use for deciding when to swap fluid on their booms? My oil seems spotless, I'm going to pull/clean the pick-up strainer this week just to see how it looks.
 
I've never changed my hydraulic fluid, but I have to add fluid regularly whenever I spring a leak or otherwise open the system. In the summertime I'll add AW68 and in the fall/winter I'll add AW32. 15 gallon tank and I'll usually add 5 gallons per year or more. One or two good leaks will cost you that much.

I do have a filter in the turret which I changed once, it's probably due again.
 
You don't run the die electric fluid Brian?
I'm having a heck of a time getting a price to replace the elbow pin and bushing on my bucket. Got a quote of $425 to recert each boom after I fix that elbow. $775 radiator waiting to go in one truck, other needs a water pump (I think thats whats leaking) and oil changes all around. We can mope together:D
 
The only reason I can think of to run the dielectric fluid is if I were using hydraulic stick saws, and I will never own one of those.
 
this seems as good a place as any to ask. im thinking about replacing my truck. right now ive got an 82 isuzu p'up 4x4 diesel. its a great truck, but its about as small as they come (52 horse anyone?). at the same time i dont need a huge beast either. thinking something like the s10, ranger, or a little bigger. diesel would be awesome, and 4x4 is a must. can any of y'all recommend a truck in that size range with a good history of durability? i found a great little chevy 3/4 or 1/2 ton diesel on craigslist a while back, but it was sold before i could get to it:(.
 
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