splicing 16 strand pole belt


Jun 25, 2007
Melbourne, Australia
just wondered how i go about splicng a pole belt with no core inside and instead of the core you bury the same length of the pole belt inside itself then whip it on the end with a backsplice and also how do i do a backsplice on 16strand thanks.
You mean splicing a lanyard from 16 strand?

Whenever I splice lanyard I always remove all of the core and bury the same length of cover back inside. Just keep in mind it take twice as much rope to make it, IE- a 16 foot piece of rope will make an 8 foot lanyard.
Regarding a backsplice.... I dunno Ive never done one I prefer to just tie a stopper knot. This way you can untie it if you want to change out adjusters easier.
Okay, for what you're looking for, I do what top hopper does. Here's a trick that will save you 75 cents: Top- a 16' piece of rope will give you a 9' lanyard. When you make the taper, the tail gets looooonger. So make your taper at the 7' mark, not the 8' mark. It'll start out crooked, but by the time you pull all those looong strands, the tail will be just about even with the body of the rope.

Jim- for the back splice, it's the same directions as a regular eye, you just cinch the eye down all the way. You can just to a direct bury with a tapered tail so that you don't have to mess around with the crossover, but it's a lot of work and maybe not worth it.

FWIW, I think the backsplice on the end of a lanyard is a great touch, and I wouldn't have it any other way on my own lanyard, but it does add a lot of $$ to an already expensive piece of gear for an eye that almost never gets used.

Finally, if you DO put an eye on the back, make sure you splice in a REAL eye on the back. I've seen people take shortcuts on the back end eye because they don't expect to be climbing on it. But one day you'll NEED to clip into that for some reason and you may or may not remember if it is or isn't strong enough to hold you.

If you wanted a stiffer line, only take out 9 or 8 strands instead of 10. This is what I do for my cambium savers and it lessens the likelyhood of them getting snagged on the way down. It would work here to make it easier to flip the rope up the tree/pole.

Feel free to ask any questions about this to clarify.

Yeah Nick I knew the taper would affect the conversion, I was being very general and unprecise. You are the expert.
It really doesn't make THAT much difference to the average splicer. But if you have a 100' of rope, you can get a free split tail if you apply this technique!

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  • #9
whats the general rule you use nick when splicing a pole belt how much do you add in length from where the eye starts. instead of doing the 28" from the eye? is it the length of the pole belt of slightly less??
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  • #11
well if you take the core out for a pole belt and want the length to be finished at 4metres with an eye either end wouldnt the length need to be longer than 28"?
well if you take the core out for a pole belt and want the length to be finished at 4metres with an eye either end wouldnt the length need to be longer than 28"?

the length of teh taper would have to be longer than 28". thats not a problem though making it shorter could be problem however.

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  • #13
thats what i meant making it longer not shorter.
i want to make a 3m and 4m pole belt how much longer should i make the section that is normally 28"?
Just checked in with this thread and have a question, jtrouse:

When you say 'pole belt' are you saying you want to use it for electrical poles? Or trees?

The main reason linemen use a STRAP to climb poles is it is durable enough to not pick or tear apart from the rough wood.
Jim, here is a pm I sent to another tree-houser. It might answer some of your questions, though you'll have to adjust the math for your specific desired length...

When I am making a longer flipline, maybe 10' or more, I will just do traditional splices on each eye. If I am making a shorter flipline with an eye on each side...

for a 6' eye-eye....

Take 14' rope, pull the core out and discard it. At the 8' mark (or just shy of that) I mark the 10 strands for removal, just like you'd mark for the regular splice. Now I bury the WHOLE tail, of course removing those 10 strands. This first eye is the eye that I will use most. Since it doesn't have the crossover action, it will, by default, be a perfectly smooths splice.

The whole thing should be about 8' long now, with an eye on one end.

Now you can splice the other side just like you would a regular 16 strand.

There is a variation where you don't bury the tail all the way since you end up throwing a few feet of core away in the traditional 16 strand splice. This would $ave you a couple feet of rope, but for your first try it might be easier to just do the first way.

Let me know if you have any questions on it.

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  • #16
I had a go at it by removing the core and making it the same as i did for traditional cambium savers but longer. theres a slight bump in the middle cause i forgot to measure the distance between for the crossover. but im happy with it for a first attempt.
ps thanks for the patience nick and others.

If i just wanted to have one eye how should i finish the tail off, just fold the rope over and whip it down?? then heat shrink.
If you just need one eye, on a short sling, I would just bury the core all the way to the other end. Whip/lock stitch the eye as normal and you're done.