Saw chain

cory

Tree House enthusiast
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My most recent 100' lasted 4 years and I need a new roll now. I've always used full comp, that's the one that has one link between each tooth. I'm just wondering how y'all feel about semi comp, which has 2 links between each tooth. Full comp seems to perform very well but it requires more filing per chain given the greater number of teeth. Any input y'all have about full vs semi with regard to performance, speed, difference in tooth damage when hitting foreign object, would be appreciated. I cut mostly hardwoods.
 
If I'm correct semi skip alternates with one or two spaces ,Full skip has two spaces . The only skip I have is on 32" and longer loops . I do however have a short box of .404 by .058 chisel for the bar of my avatar saw which no more than it gets used I may never have to spin up another chain for .For that saw it cuts about the same no matter what I have on it ,114 CC reed valve torquer 7-8 HP .
I may be incorrect but I think the idea behind skip chain was for the softer wood in the PNW for chip clearing .It may have an effect in like dry oak or it might not .You can jamb them up on hardwoods but usually if you back off the pressure it will clean out .You can tell by the sound of the engine when it starts to jamb .
 
Actually semi comp has two links between cutters, then one link between cutters, alternating. Full skip has 2 links between every cutter. I've used full skip exclusively for close to 10 years and love it. I think it cuts better and it's definitely faster to sharpen. The only time I have full comp is on a new saw, and it always seems to cut slower and doesn't take a big enough bite. I can't ever get the rakers filed right on full comp and usually end up throwing it away and replacing it with one of my chains.

Nobody around me stocks skip chain but my dealer can get me a roll within a couple days from the Stihl distributor. Stihl 33RSF. Many dealers charge full retail but my dealer is very reasonable.
 
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  • #5
Good responses, thx.

I just bought a husky 572 (wanted a 576 but dealer says no longer made), it's saw chain has 2 links between every tooth (=semi skip?). I haven't run it yet cuz I'm waiting for the outside dog to be sent (why make a 'big' saw without 2 dogs?). So I'll be checking out this new chain but interested in your perspectives before buying a new chain roll
 
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  • #6
Ok, the new chain I have is full skip, good on you, Skwerl.

Madsen's FTW

 
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Skwerl, re rakers, I would think raker-height sensitivity would be more critical on full skip than full comp because each tooth is doing more cutting? But you report the opposite is true.
 
IMO the full skip can take a bigger bite with each tooth because what bogs you down is when the kerf gets clogged with chips. With full comp the chain takes up too much space leaving less space for wood chips. I'm used to ripping through wood with skip. When I use full comp I can't get it to cut fast enough, it always acts like the rakers are too high. I can't file them down enough to work like the skip chain, it either bogs or skims through the kerf without biting enough. Just my experience, YMMV.

Also when you hit metal it isn't nearly as painful as full comp. I can usually get a 24" chain back into shape in less than 5 minutes. Any longer and I'll just toss on a new chain.

Speaking of which, don't forget to file your new chains before use. The gullets are never cut deep enough from the factory so a new chain won't cut as well. Three strokes on each tooth to finish clearing the gullet makes a world of difference, and helps keep your new chain from getting work hardened which makes it harder to file. Try it once and you will always file new chains from now on.
 
Not as big a deal on a big saw cutting big wood, but skip chain's can be grabbier cutting small stuff as when limbing. I use full comp on everything. I wouldn't mind skip on my 36" bar. but it isn't worth buying a roll just for that.
 
I run full skip, largely softwoods.
my ms250 might be full comp .063, .325. Someone said it is more of a hardwood chain.
261 with a 20”, .050/ .375 that can go on any of my saws up to ms661.

Call Madsen’s and ask. They ship all over, dealing with all sorts of people. They have many plaques for record number of saw sales for Stihl power heads, and also sell Husky.
 
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  • #11
Yeah, Sean, Madsen's is the chit, fo sho. I think that is where my last roll came from.

Interesting info, Brian. But I've never noticed work hardening nor difficulty filing new chains. Sure, they cut a bit slower but Idk, it doesn't bother me for a day or two. I thought work hardening was from something like hitting metal so that the tooth becomes a bit hardened in addition to damaged, and the file has serious trouble cutting it and removing material
 
Work hardening is from heat, generated by friction. That comes from running a dull chain. Not sure of other brands but I run Stihl exclusively. 63pm and 33rsf. This doesn't really apply to the 1/4" pitch 71pm used on the new MS150 and pole saws. It cuts great out of the box.
 
I run full house chain (STIHL RS 3/8 .05 and X-chain c-83 3/8 .05) on all 50+cc saws ... Takes a few filings to get them to come around ... Off the roll chain cuts decently but as the teeth are mass produced the lengths/gullets vary somewhat
 
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  • #14
Are there teeth that aren't mass produced?
 
I don’t believe so , it would be cost-prohibitive to make every cutter dead-nuts on , there is a tolerance for each ...
 
The Husqvarna 572xp is a fine unit right out of the box with excellent mileage but she’s a bit choked up on the ass end. Exhaust mods / porting can really turn this saw into a wood cutting animal using a 24” b/c that’s easy on fuel to boot .
 
The Husqvarna 572xp is a fine unit right out of the box with excellent mileage but she’s a bit choked up on the ass end. Exhaust mods / porting can really turn this saw into a wood cutting animal using a 24” b/c that’s easy on fuel to boot .
Best answer, @cory, you now know what chain to buy.
 
I run full house chain (STIHL RS 3/8 .05 and X-chain c-83 3/8 .05) on all 50+cc saws ... Takes a few filings to get them to come around ... Off the roll chain cuts decently but as the teeth are mass produced the lengths/gullets vary somewhat
🤔
 
When ever I buy a new saw I trade the chain for extra screnches. I dont have patience to file full comp. Another great thing about full skip IMO is when you use the pferd chainsaw sharpener it takes the rakers down more so they really rip. FWIW I use it on all my saws including the 562 with 18" bar.
 
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  • #22
I have a triple lifetime supply of screnches, they are one of those things that seem to multiply as they sit in storage.
 
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