Samurai Ichiban

Cut the hook off, is my advice. After having it pull out of the scabbard I got rid of it and never looked back.

Breaking blades I thought was more an issue of the carbon content. When Silky first came out they broke all the time. The factory rep. told me they changed the metallurgy
 
i bent my samurai on the first day of having it and was only cutting lime....im told they have improved the strength of the blade a little since
 
Hacksaw, and then trimmed the rough edges with a blade. That hook is nice for what's it for, but the cause of a lot of frustration for a climber. I can't count the times a rope snagged on that thing and pulled the saw out of the scabbard,,, losing it. Too many times.
 
I don't think so, Wesley...seems like he fears it will bite him if he turns his back on it for even a second.
:D
 
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  • #37
Well Gentlemen, I spoke too soon. I used the Ichiban this morning on a live oak trim and I found out real quick that it was more aggressive a tooth pattern than I care for. It was great on bigger wood but it would hang up on the smaller stuff.

It has the standard 7 tpi, but for some reason it cut like it had less. I was glad to grab my Zubat.

I wonder what model Samurai handsaw has a less aggressive tooth pattern?
 
There's a new Zubat coming out in November, as well as the Kanta (huge assed blade, probably 24-30" long).

The new Zubat is a bit longer, has a bigger hook on the tip for grabbing ropes, and has a new scabbard.
 
Butch,
I had posted on another earlier thread that when new the Kanzawa seems to bite into the wood too much and makes it hard to pull back unless you put no pressure on the blade. And that it works better after the points on the teeth get dulled a bit. Keep using it, you need to use very light or no pressure when cutting. When the tips dull to about like a new Zubat, you can then cut like you normally would and it will stay that way for a long, long time.
 
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