Treeaddict
Treehouser
Can one use a bar without the sprocket? Does it just make it like a hard nose bar? Or, is the hard nose bar more than a bar without a sprocket?
Ridiculously stupid question
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It won't work. Ask me how I know :^D
The tip will spread, and the chain will wedge into the tip. What /might/ work is fitting a piece of metal into the tip, and spot welding it in place. I'd try it if I had all the stuff on hand to do it, but I wouldn't buy anything to give it a try.
The tip will spread, and the chain will wedge into the tip. What /might/ work is fitting a piece of metal into the tip, and spot welding it in place. I'd try it if I had all the stuff on hand to do it, but I wouldn't buy anything to give it a try.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #3
Yeah, the work I’d have to put into it would be better served replacing the nose. So far Walter Coale won’t do a nose. AK saw shop hasn’t called me back yet. We’ll see
I think AK only checks phone messages once a day. They're an Amish shop and use a community phone I believe. I'm not sure a Stihl nose will fit the Forester bar. That's something you'd want to research. I made a quick look when you mentioned it before, and it appeared to me they use Oregon compatible noses, but I wouldn't make a purchase based off what I saw.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #5
I’m trying to put it in hands of capable professionals but if said professionals don’t exist locally, I’ll hafta dew sum research regarding an appropriate replacement most. Appreciate the lead, John!
Check here...
I think you'll probably have to order online regardless. If you find it's Oregon compatible, Jacks might have something in stock you could get in person.
I think you'll probably have to order online regardless. If you find it's Oregon compatible, Jacks might have something in stock you could get in person.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #8
I have no idea Cory. It may be a piece of cake. 🤷♂️. I’m trying to not worry with things that someone else can do. I used to, for example, have to figure out what was wrong, everything I needed, and costs to fix the truck and then take it to the mechanic. Now I just take it to the mechanic. I guess as I get older, I’ll pay someone to do a job and am willing to be ignorant about specifics.
I suppose it’s worth looking into it as a DIY.
I haven't done it, but it seems easy enough. I'd have to see what the parts look like in the package, but what I see in my head, is drill the rivets, punch them out, install new tip+rivets. The time expenditure I'd expect is 15 minutes for the first time, and faster going forward.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Absolutely not. The sprocket tip isn't hardened and the gap is too wide for your chain to ride on it without the sprocket. And sprocket tips can be replaced but in 40 years I have never done it. By the time the tip fails I just buy another bar.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #11
I’d buy another bar but it’s a 54” (expensive) with low hours and it in great shape otherwise.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Then absolutely buy a replacement tip. It should come with new rivets. Drill or punch out the old rivets then install the new tip and set the new rivets.
Just wherever you buy it, make sure you see a picture of it and confirm it's the same mounting pattern as your current bar.
Just wherever you buy it, make sure you see a picture of it and confirm it's the same mounting pattern as your current bar.
Nutball
TreeHouser
If I remember correctly, I drill and punch. Undersized drill so I don't damage the bar, but still weaken the rivet, and a punch to push it out.
I usually replace one tip and then get max life outta the bar. But on a shorter, high use bar (like 24'' bars I use full time) as opposed to your 54" bar, Brian is right too, when the tip goes the bar probably doesn't have alot of good, straight-cutting performance left, imo.
Normzilla
Treehouser
Is it a Cannon? Yeah I'm agreeing with others. Don't run it until you get a new tip. It would be really bad dangerous too. Do you have a picture? Most tips are super easy, drill out old rivets. Over a vise or hard service pound new rivets and flatten them a little bit. Replacement as mentioned depends on bar brand and quality. Many times the bar is still good, may need some railed work, smooth out sharp edges tighten etc. But if it's a Cannon, I haven't worn one out yet they are made to last.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #16
@Normzilla it’s not a cannon bar. It’s a Forester. I’ve actually done a little research on it and it does seem pretty easy. Probably order a new nose today off the link Lxskllr posted.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Most saw shops dont charge much to do it either.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #18
I went up to AK saw shop today. They are a real saw shop. The closer Stihl and Husky dealers have all types of equipment but carry saws. AK is a saw shop. It’s really neat. Makes me wish I ran Stihl. They had many older models for sale used. They are a true repair shop. Amish owned and operated. I can tell that they can fix anything and will try to repair instead of trying to sell you new. Spoke to the owner for about 20 minutes. Had my 5 year old with me. He has young children as well. Good fellowshipping with another believer.
Sometimes I think about taking my family to live among the Amish. At its best it’s a great faith based community without distractions and good, hard, honest working people. I believe my kids would benefit from hard work. There’s definitely cons though. We’ll probably never do it but it’s in the thoughts.
Sometimes I think about taking my family to live among the Amish. At its best it’s a great faith based community without distractions and good, hard, honest working people. I believe my kids would benefit from hard work. There’s definitely cons though. We’ll probably never do it but it’s in the thoughts.
How's his arborist supply looking? I haven't been up there in awhile. Last I was there, there wasn't a huge selection, but you could supply just about anything you wanted to do aerially, though you might not find the exact gear you preferred.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #20
I didn’t see too much gear. There were 3 different saddles, one porta wrap, and some flip lines by the entry way. Since I had my little guy, looking at all the eye candy wasn’t possible. There may have been a section that was unseen though.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #22
Ok. Maybe I didn’t miss anything then. They had a couple ms 460’s for $700 with 24” bars for sale. Quite a few older model saws for sale. Didn’t see a 200T in there
Normzilla
Treehouser
awesome
SeanKroll
Treehouser
That's an asking price. Seems high.
You can offer less.
I have a good 460, and a 461. Haven't run a 462.
Both are good. 460 is ported, old but solid, hungry. 461 is more modern, solid.
I'm not a saw geek, and have basically run Stihl, except some Echo climbing saws. I'm no authority.
All my saws just keep running with cleaned/ fresh filters and plugs, occasionally. Durable. Only seized up a bought-used 660, supposedly from a worn decompression valve. Dunno.
On pro bars, the sprocket is easily removable as the nose is seperate to the bar, and its just a matter of punching out the rivets, removing old nose, fit new one and pein over new rivets.
I think the picture you put up of your bar, with a damaged sprocket was a non pro laminated bar where the sprocket is part of the bar and not a seperate item like the pro bars.
But you can still replace them, as its just a matter of punching out the 4 rivets that hold the center piece of the sprocket, and removing it and then refitting the new replacement sprocket, and then fitting and pein over the rivets.
the hard part it getting a replacement sprocket for a non pro bar.
yt has plenty of how too's on the matter, but its a pretty simple easy process.
and NO, as others have said, you cant run the bar like a solid nose without the sprocket.
I think the picture you put up of your bar, with a damaged sprocket was a non pro laminated bar where the sprocket is part of the bar and not a seperate item like the pro bars.
But you can still replace them, as its just a matter of punching out the 4 rivets that hold the center piece of the sprocket, and removing it and then refitting the new replacement sprocket, and then fitting and pein over the rivets.
the hard part it getting a replacement sprocket for a non pro bar.
yt has plenty of how too's on the matter, but its a pretty simple easy process.
and NO, as others have said, you cant run the bar like a solid nose without the sprocket.
