OK to use hydraulic fluid as bar oil?

cory

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I've got some clean, unused hydro fluid, just wanted to get rid of it thru the saw if that won't hurt anything.

What do you fluid maestros say?
 
It doesn't have a tackifing agent in it, but it'll work fine. It could be argued that increased bar wear could be noticed, but with bar oil costing $8+/gallon, it wouldn't take many gallons to pay for a new bar.

If I've got a near empty jug of bar oil when I'm doing a fluid swap, I'll fill it up with hydro oil... otherwise it goes into a fire.
 
...clean unused , done it no problems I can see. ....On the other hand I have seen used hydraulic and gearbox oils from chairlifts run through the saws at the ski areas..... Hmmmm , stinks , probably a health and environmental hazard as well. I told them they aren't saving any money just go buy a case of bar oil....Me no work there anymore
 
I have run used hydro fluid for years now. In the summer I even add water to it and shake it up to get it milky looking. I doubt there are any health issues as there are no combustibles in there like in used motor oil. I notice no wear difference from bar oil but that being said it has been years since I've ran that. When we start getting low on bar oil I just change the hydro fluid in one of the machines, shoot stumper takes 20 gallons and likes clean fluid.
 
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  • #6
Cool. thanks.
 
Supposedly tests were ran compairing for example used crankcase oil as oppossed to bar oil .It was reported to be no difference although I find that hard to believe .
 
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  • #10
The hydro fluid seemed to work fine but it made my saws and therefore the shop kinda stink like, you guessed it, hydro oil
 
I had a couple customers here wanting to save a buck using hydro oil but ended up paying pump repairs instead as the oil was not clean.
I had another that got sick from the fumes. There are easier way's to save money than running hydro oil I think.

I can understand it seems like a bright idea as it is in some cases not as thick, but there is winter oil for this purpose.
 
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  • #12
I was just trying to get rid of a little leftover in the bottom of the jug (clean). I much prefer winter weight bar oil.
 
Magnus I have been running it for years and I have not bought a new big saw in maybe 15 years. Never had an oiler issue.
 
Good for you.
They run them full time, half year. 15 years would be 15 000hrs for these guy's...
Not sure there is a saw made that last that much, most are made to run 2000hrs. Or should I say were as today they are lucky to get 1500 hrs out of them before they fall apart.
 
I try to use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. I have used engine oil in a hydraulic system before in a pinch but that is about it. I used to buy just one grade of engine oil 15-40. But it does make a difference to run 5-30 in my gas pickups.

Maybe I am silly, and a sucker for the oil companies. But after a semester in fuels and lubricants in college, I can tell you that there is a difference!

Of course, I use such a small amount of Stihl bar oil it would be silly to use something else.

What the hell is bar oil anyway? I assume it is petroleum based? I like the idea of bio grade.
 
Basically bar oil and machine way oil are one in the same ..However there is a vast difference in price,way oil is a much more costly .BTW I use bar oil on my lathes and milling machine .Works just as well as Mobil Vactra way oil .
 
Magnus I have about 5 046s and 2 066s. Periodically I will do a complete tear down and put on a new jug and piston. Also I probably only run them 5 hours a week.
 
5hrs run time a week is 240hrs runtime a year if you have a 4 week vacation.
So around 7-8 years you run them the expected 2000hrs.

How many rebuilds have you done the past 15 years on these saws periodically?
Does complete rebuild mean same as it do in a saw shop that bearings, seals etc also is replaced?
 
I don't know about mashine oil, but I do know there is a vast differance in oild property's.

Don't lube wheel nuts with a good bar oil. Not anything else you want to have stuck.
Don't use any oil in any system as that could lead to costly repairs.

Put a hydro oil not opted for high temps in a tractor with wet breaks and you learn why you need to pay attention to the letters and numbers the oil is called besides the W number.
A good teacher is a 10K USD repair....
 
I used to buy hydro/trans oil at Central Tractor. Much cheaper than Deere oil. I later read that there aren't they aren't held to standards on that oil like they are on engine oil. I started buying JD oil again.
 
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