OK Carl, time to shine.

[sawinredneck]

I am trying to figure out a "quick and dirty" easily removable mount for a chainsaw on the mini.
So far, the best I can figure is using 2x8's and plywood for spacers. I think it will wear out to fast. I don't like steel all the way, that would be hard on chains obviously.
I'm stummped.
My theory is being able to take the saw on the mini, go cut it, carry it out and move on to the next batch!

 

[JonnyHart]

Something like this, but modified to fit on a mini?
http://www.kodiakoutback.com/detail.aspx?ID=124

 

[sawinredneck]

I've seen them, but thanks Jonny, think CHEAP, REALLY CHEAP!!!! REALLY, REALLY, REALLY REALLY CHEAP!!!!

 

[SkwerI]

That looks pretty cheap to make, Bud. Maybe even utilize one of the bar sleeves that come with the Stihl saws, everybody has a couple of those thrown in the corner of the shop or buried in a box somewhere.

Even using one of those sleeves as a liner for your plywood idea would help.

 

[JonnyHart]

 

[sawinredneck]

That looks pretty cheap to make, Bud. Maybe even utilize one of the bar sleeves that come with the Stihl saws, everybody has a couple of those thrown in the corner of the shop or buried in a box somewhere.

Even using one of those sleeves as a liner for your plywood idea would help.

I thought about using the sheath, but they seem so thin I think that they would tear pretty easily.

The clamp has been a thought, but I would lose it!

 

[SkwerI]

Yes, they will eventually tear. But they will last for a decent amount of time for the cost (free), especially if you just use them as an inner liner for a plywood or sheet metal scabbard.

Andy, I know you well enough by now that no matter what anybody suggests, your very first instinctual reply will be to say why it won't work. Do me a favor and don't type out that first reply. Just think about it long enough to figure out how to make it work, rather than telling us why it won't.

 

[Old Monkey]

Metal with rubber on the inside. I am thinking of an old mud flap cut up.

 

[sawinredneck]

Yes, they will eventually tear. But they will last for a decent amount of time for the cost (free), especially if you just use them as an inner liner for a plywood or sheet metal scabbard.

Andy, I know you well enough by now that no matter what anybody suggests, your very first instinctual reply will be to say why it won't work. Do me a favor and don't type out that first reply. Just think about it long enough to figure out how to make it work, rather than telling us why it won't.

The sheath/scabard was my first thought Brian, I couldn't figure how to get it attached without cracking and breaking using bolts or rivets, any amount of vibration would tear it to shreds.
Lining the inside of the plywood and wood it would wear a lot longer.
I am afraid the wood will not hold up as I will have to use pressure treated, and will only be able to bolt it on one side along the grain, increasing the chance of frature.
As I am "large" I don't have much give on the inside of the machine, and really don't care to loose any of that space.
That leaves me with a one inchbend that runs down the outside above the lift cylinders, 1/4" thick. Plenty of strength there.
Add to this a tremendous amount of vibration and rough terain.
I tried making a small version tonight out of pressure treated 2x6's and screwing them together, it just split right where I had screwed it, the same place I will have to bolt it. Thus creating what I think will be a major weakness.
This is what I have considered so far.

 

[sawinredneck]

Metal with rubber on the inside. I am thinking of an old mud flap cut up.

Cool, hadn't thought of that, thanks Darin!

 

[SkwerI]

predrill your holes to reduce the chance of splitting.

 

[sawinredneck]

predrill your holes to reduce the chance of splitting.

I'm afraid the third or fourth time I run over a stump, my dumb azz will run over my saw because I wasn't paying attention and watching the cracking!!!! I'd like to hang the 046 on it as well.

So add cheap, and IDIOT proof together

 

[SkwerI]

OK, how about 2 pieces of truck mudflaps, cut to size (the 'bread' of your 'sandwich'). Then use two 1X2 wood strips as your spacers down either side. Attach the plastic bar sleeve inside the middle of the sandwich as your liner.

Do you follow or do I gotta go rig something up in the shop and take a picture?

 

[woodworkingboy]

predrill your holes to reduce the chance of splitting.

What Skwerl says! Just to get technical, pre-drill what you are screwing through, so that the screw slips through with no resistance, and pre-drill what you are screwing into, the size of the screw shank not including the threads. The threads are all you want to bite into the wood, the shank forcing through can cause splitting. Add some glue for additional strength. Put some wax or bar soap on the screws for easier inserting, and helps prevent stress on the wood. Unless you are too close to an edge, you won't get splitting.

Is plywood wood? If you use a hardwood, like walnut or cherry, it's stronger than plywood for the use that you have in mind. With a coat or two of verathane on it, it should last, and you won't need to use a waterproof glue.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Fire Hose attached and grommet the screws on the sides. Make sure hose is wide enough to tack down and leave room for bar and chain. Cheap as I can think of. .....

 

[woodworkingboy]

I have a fire hose sheath too, but it needs to be quite a bit larger than the bar with chain, or it grabs when inserting. That's what I found anyway.

 

[sawinredneck]

OK, how about 2 pieces of truck mudflaps, cut to size (the 'bread' of your 'sandwich'). Then use two 1X2 wood strips as your spacers down either side. Attach the plastic bar sleeve inside the middle of the sandwich as your liner.

Do you follow or do I gotta go rig something up in the shop and take a picture?

I follow, I follow!

 

[woodworkingboy]

My hardware store home center sells thick and wide rubber strips, and the rubber mats that they use for standing on over concrete floors, some of those are thick and would work good. Thick rubber would give good stability and strength.

 

[SkwerI]

Here's your pikshure.
Use the mud flaps instead of plywood, it will last much longer.

 

[JIML]

big hook screwed in the side of the machine, hang it by the rear handle?

 

[DTW902]

PVC Andy, fast, simple, and cheap. Like nothing if you get short, end cuts from a plumber. A little heat and you can have just about any shape you want.

 

[DTW902]

Went looking for a photo, none on this computer. But here is one of my pictures from teupens site, picture number 88.
http://www.spiderlifts.com/23gt/photos.html

 

[sawinredneck]

I'll have to keep an eye out for some PVC to try, shouldn't wear as easily, or tear! Does it crack and break easily Dave?

 

[Mr. Sir]

Forget about the sheath thingy.

Extra large snap hook (like a ladder snap) and a bungee cord.

Or a chainsaw lanyard, hang it from a convenient spot on the mini and use the bungee to keep it from flopping around too much.

 

[sawinredneck]

Forget about the sheath thingy.

Extra large snap hook (like a ladder snap) and a bungee cord.

Or a chainsaw lanyard, hang it from a convenient spot on the mini and use the bungee to keep it from flopping around too much.

Same problem with the hook. I had the perfect place to mount it, all problems were solved, then I held the saw up to the machine, even with the 18" bar it was in the tires. Anything just dangling on the outside will get hooked or snagged into something it doesn't need to. Be it a tire or a hyd. hose, or tree branch.
It's amazing how little room there really is to work with on these things.