For most people, two singles would probably do the job better.
If you are doing really heavy rigging, then the heat dissipation might be good.
When using fiddle blocks, its easier to run them horizontally from a neighboring tree to a block at the base of the removal tree and up. This runs the line across the work zone. Sometimes this would be a problem, other times it wouldn't. It would at least require another suitable anchor point.
The Steins overall are built for higher working load and seemingly greater heat dissipation than the POWs.
The older POW, without the preservation cap on the end, allows a cold pack to be inserted. Our RC2000 has a rubber donut plug, with unknown purpose, on the back side (against the tree), which I suspect could be removed to add a cold pack. Maybe its for adding ice water and a cork stopper (have joking, half serious).
I like the 2000 having 4 exit fairleads, but can't say if it is any more practical to be able to take 1/4 wrap increments, as opposed to the 1/2 wrap increments of a POW. We just got the rc2000, specifically for tying off short with the 1/2" amsteel for pulling trees. We needed a second LD in general and a stronger one for the amsteel, so we decided it was the best fit. At Parks, we don't have to rig much, as collateral damage is generally okay if there isn't ample room in the campsites/ Day Use to bomb on dirt , as it means we can get to more trees in a day. Most vegetation is native shrubs. We did block down Doug-fir logs recently over asphalt though, and a Big Leaf maple over asphalt and an electrical box and RV sewer connection.
