Husky 540 cutting and climbing

[RopeArmour]

I believe you have more leverage in the harness. Think bench press.

 

[RegC]

I believe you have more leverage in the harness. Think bench press.

To an extent Tommy, only in a saddle you're pressing into your lower back/waist, unlike a bench where you get full support right up to and behind the shoulders. But yeah i know what you mean.

 

[Jed]

Man Reg: Thanks tons for the videos. My modded 201 is working o.k. for now, but my next saw is certainly the 540.

Hey, I was wondering if you had read about Gerry Beranek's 18% rule. Let's say the Firpig is 120' and you can only bust a 20' top. Now the stick is 100' right? (This one is the only math I can do in my head ) Go down 18' and cut the log out with a wide face. It does an exact 270 degree belly flop on the ground instead of landing on end. So, 18% of what's left (82') is about a fifteen footer. Then a 12 footer then a ten footer etc. Man, that trick has saved me a ton of lawn pokes. In a straight-standing stick, (as you already know) you can make your face-cut about sixty percent of the way through the log--or a bit more for good measure--and now you've sawn in a good bit of "lean". I try to keep a 150' rope for the approximate 150' Firs, (our second-growth is seldom much higher than that) and a 120' for shorter Firs, and that way I can usually tell about where I'm at without having to ask the ground guys how much rope is on the ground. Works like a champ. Kind of a fun little trick, and lets you mess around with different face-cuts and holding-wood to try to get the piece to rotate a bit faster or slower (depending on whether the logs are landing uphill, or downhill. When you're way up there in the smaller wood with the top-handle saws, on a lanyard, you can also chuck your saw to the side and use both hands to flip the log in order to "cheat" with a slightly longer length.... but you probably already use this stuff.

 

[RegC]

Yes I have the book, and great info Jed, thanks for posting

 

[Tucker943]

Nice vid, Reg. That saw cuts like a beaver on meth. I will be interested to see its durability, and will honestly be surprised if it is still doing well after a year or so, cuz it is related to the 335s and 338s. But for your sake, hopefully it will meet or exceed the standard set by the 0200.

How is the air cleaner system on it; does it get dirty quick and is it easy to clean?

In the vid, those were some huge pieces imo to be mismatch cutting. It works well for you obviously but is there a point when you would saw a face and back cut instead of mismatching, while still in wood sized for a 16" bar?

It didn't look like you left any stubs on your way up, can you rapelle somehow, in case of emergency?

Cory, when was your last go round with 338's?

 

[cory]

Cory, when was your last go round with 338's?

Awhile ago. I think I had 3 or 4 of them. When new, they cut great and were ergonomic. But soon the air leaks occurred which were basically unfixable by the dealer. I sold them off with low hours for $25 each and was overjoyed to be rid of them.

I read Squish had trouble with his re air leaks. Sure, it was warranty but, nah, not for me. Unless Reg puts a full year on his and treats it like a rented mule, and it still runs great, only then would I give one a try.

 

[cory]

Sure there's more leverage Cory, but if you envisage stood on the ground and making the cut at just above waste height and then pushing the log over....probably you'd do it one handed even? Trust me its not much harder up a tree. Watch Scott at 0.15 in the video. He's a bigger, stronger dude than me mind:

Good vid.

I dunno, I actually may have to try that on the ground before I use it up in the tree on a 16"x10' section. Hats off to you for mastering it and using it daily basis.

I usually have the RopeWrench or HH on my saddle somewhere....if needed. But if not and in an emergency, you can always run the line through your feet in a footlock formation which frees up the hitch and makes it function-able singled line....same principle as the hitch-hiker.

More good info, thanks, Reg.

 

[Jed]

Cory: Try it (the step or snap-cut) with a snipe in the bottom to let the chunk roll out more better. Also: make your last, and smallest cut (the one nearest you) LOWER than the main, and deepest cut rather than above it like Reg did. Won't grab your saw if you mess-up and lose it. More better.

 

[cory]

Snipe sounds good but if I'm gonna snipe it, why not face and back cut it?

Yes, last cut must be lower than first cut, always afaik.

 

[Tucker943]

Awhile ago. .

They aren't noted for being as troublesome as they once were. I run a 2139 for years now with no mercy and have only had to add gas and oil to it....

 

[RegC]

Yes, last cut must be lower than first cut, always afaik.

We always put the backcut higher....helps if you need to slide the butt off so the log lands flat. If a log has no favor, it really shouldnt fall off before you get your saw out. I used higher back-cuts on crane pick too, for years....for the same reason you'd leave some stumpshot when falling. Obviously you dont overlap with a falling cut though. But if in doubt, what Jed says.

 

[Jed]

AHHHH!!! I stand corrected. Perfectly functional the way Reg uses it.

Cory: Because you don't have to sit there sawing in a full diagonal all day long. Just use a little baby snipe about one third the depth of the undercut. Works great.

 

[cory]

They aren't noted for being as troublesome as they once were. I run a 2139 for years now with no mercy and have only had to add gas and oil to it....

Well that's a pretty good recommendation. What is 2139, Jonsereds?

We always put the backcut higher....helps if you need to slide the butt off so the log lands flat. If a log has no favor, it really shouldnt fall off before you get your saw out. I used higher back-cuts on crane pick too, for years....for the same reason you'd leave some stumpshot when falling. Obviously you dont overlap with a falling cut though. But if in doubt, what Jed says.

Mighty interesting info. Thanks Reg.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

1 Week Ago
rbtree replied to a thread t540 xp in Chainsaws!


Even better is dealing with Bob of Ashokan Turf and Timber in NY. He's spike60 on Arboristsite.... He knows his saws and even has the prettier red and black Jonsy's!!! He sells 540's for $550, and 550's ( replaced the venerable 346...) for $450!!! I just got a new 338NE from a local fella for $390. Only a couple tanks through it...gutless as they all are in stock form. But I've now run it for a couple days and a couple tanks of gas with a ported muffler, and now it will decimate a 200T. Sure, eventually, I'll get a 540, but I'm not happy that the weight has bumped up about 6-8 ounces, it sounds like.

 

[stilken]

After much debate over the 201 and the 540 I went with the 540 and so glad I did my 200 was stolen now I kinda want to thank the guy lol

 

[Jed]

Yeah.... I got the 201.

 

[cory]

the 201s that actually work are fine.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Like mine!

 

[squisher]

My 540 isn't running great. Seems to flood itself up and the throttle response is slowwww.

Here's the filter/carb. After about eight tanks since it's last cleaning. Probably 20 tanks plus through it now.

It's going back to the shop to get hooked up to the puter again.

 

[squisher]

Hmm. Try that again?

 

[squisher]

Tank vent malfunctioning maybe?

 

[Oldmilltreecare]

I've had a t540 for a couple of months now and at first I loved it but soon it seemed to loose all it's power.
I kept checking the chain and kept it sharp but it was no different.

Now I've changed the chain to a Stihl full chisel and What A Difference!!

The supplied chain (in the UK) is from a toy shop so I advise you buy the t540, throw the chain in the bin and put a real chain on.
Done!

 

[squisher]

I switched out the crap chain first tank.

My 540 has already had the intake boot/plate replaced under warranty and now it's not running right again.

I don't run saws dull and I wouldn't mistake a roasted chain as the saw running like crap.

 

[mrdiesel]

Squisher, does yours seem to be difficult to restart when is warm i.e. 15 minutes after it was at operating temp. Mine starts fine when cold or hot but is gradually becoming more temperamental when warm. If I choke it it floods so I end up pulling 10 to 15 to get it to fire

 

[treegongfu]

Hi all. Gavin here. Great site! My 540 is following the exact same pattern as mrdiesel's and forcing me back to the reliable echo 355t.