File guides

Oh just hand file and stop making excuses, ya bunch of old codgers! Are we young whippersnappers passing you by?

That's ok, we will be waiting at the tasty freeze for the Cherry Coke you owe us...
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #27
Larger file creates less hook and more durable angles, slower cutting. Larger file works better on a new cutter…smaller diameter as the cutter is used up and gets lower.

I have some 1/4” files that I ground a flat side on that rides in the bottom of the gullet to maintain height…copy of stihl hexa file idea. Don’t have to pay as much attention to hand filing, or helps in awkward positions.


Husky roller guide for the win

1/4” chain…I dunno
3/8” Lp = 5/32”
.325” =3/16”
3/8” is 13/64” or 7/32”
So with semi chisel 3/8 LP like Oregon 91? I use a 5/32… but most of my 3/8 LP is full chisel now as I only use it on my 200 and 40cc poulan. And on the full chisel stuff I use 3/16 and might drop down to 11/64 when the teeth start getting small, if I tried to use 5/32 (which I have) I end up with waaaaayyy too much hook.

I have a husky roller guide for my 3/8th and .325 mini but I have a couple forester brand 3/8th chains and the husky guide doesn’t fit those chains right
 
So with semi chisel 3/8 LP like Oregon 91? I use a 5/32… but most of my 3/8 LP is full chisel now as I only use it on my 200 and 40cc poulan. And on the full chisel stuff I use 3/16 and might drop down to 11/64 when the teeth start getting small, if I tried to use 5/32 (which I have) I end up with waaaaayyy too much hook.

I have a husky roller guide for my 3/8th and .325 mini but I have a couple forester brand 3/8th chains and the husky guide doesn’t fit those chains right
File the guide to fit
 
My opinion is guides are a learning tool , I refuse to be guide dependent and believe in hand filing (its like what if there was a disaster where guides are unavailable with work to do).On file diameter as Jerry teaches there is a place where dropping 1/32" is beneficial (after chisel is about half or better filed)
And consider a progressively raker setting.
 
A good flat mill file and give her five full strokes per sharpening for softwoods, 2-3 for hardwood. That will keep your rakers about right. Typically a good pronounced flat spot on the rakers, properly angled, and you're pretty much good for the life of the chain.

Folks get waaaaaay to uppity about their chains. The trick is to get a good edge established, clear the gullet, and keep the corner at a wicked point. Keep well away from rocks and metal and dirty wood and you won't spend much time playing with a file at all. Inspect your chain regularly, and just keep that hook mean.

These foothill oaks are very forgiving compared to the nasty high-desert trees I grew up with. I think I've filed the 32in chain on my 500i maybe 5 times in the last year, usually because I kissed a rock bucking something big.

Let's see, five species of oak, three of pine, and Western Red Cedar, manzanita of various species, buckeye, willow, sycamore, various brush species including buckthorn and mountain mahogany, redbud, dogwood and various fruit trees, so lots of variety on that chain. Just sayin. It's also eaten som granite and t post...just sayin...
 
From an old thread, some thoughts by me... thread started by our sadly gone friend Jed. This is a good one.

 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top