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Echo 2511t

Nutball

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3/8 .043 seems to cut faster than 1/4 .050. There's not enough difference to really matter when using the saw in the size of wood it is most practical for, but I got 2 seconds slower in a 9-10" log. Oregon chain was used, so results could be better with Stihl chain.

Warning on the Oregon 1/4 chain: they don't grind the teeth evenly from the factory!
 

Nutball

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That mini .043 .25" pitch chain works very well once the depth gauges are filed down a good bit. It still bore cuts smooth, and cuts fast enough. The archer bar, though, is not so good. The chain is good other than being a less than ideal fit on the sprocket unlike Oregon.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AzC7P0d-Lzs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

Nutball

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Could be better. It should do better than 13 seconds on that log as long as 25% more teeth over 3/8 chain doesn't slow it down. Best time was 14.5s in 10" Ash. Without filing the depth gauges, I had to press very hard to bury the 13" bar in hardwood at a rate that really loaded down the saw. As the chain is now, it has a slight kickback tendency when bore cutting, but it's still possible to bore cut. Videos of the ms150 show it doing 11 seconds in 8" chesnut (stock) and 11" Ash (muffler modded), so maybe Stihl chain cuts way better than this Archer chain?
 

Jonny

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But better at 6 pounds?
I'd probably stop carrying a Silky if I had a 2511T.

What's wrong w the Archer bar? Laminated layers separating at all?
 

Nutball

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Along with the rest of China's laminated bars, Archer laminated bars start out with an extra wide and very uneven gauge that will only get wider in a very short amount of time as their overly thick paint wears off. My preferred standard is <.005" larger than the chain gauge when new (high quality milled bars meet that standard), and no more than .015" larger than the chain before I toss it because the chain has too little of support to ensure a straight cut. These laminated bars start out wildly ranging from .003-.017" before the paint wears off. There might be some misalignment too at times.

I'll give them credit for the sprocket tip keeping the chain from rubbing the tip. I don't think Stihl 1/4 bars do that, which makes you wonder why even have a sprocket?
 

SeanKroll

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I hit metal.
Picked up my 193t. Heavy and large by comparison. 200t, moreso.


Wonderful for one-handed, accurate pruning cuts.
 

greengreer

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But better at 6 pounds?
I'd probably stop carrying a Silky if I had a 2511T.

What's wrong w the Archer bar? Laminated layers separating at all?
My coworker bought one too and we were just joking about not using the silky anymore either. Mines become more of a reaching tool than a cutting tool now.
Fwiw he had a chain made for his. No drilling of the Stihl bar, complete bolt on. Two extra drive links did the trick.
 

Nutball

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This Archer combo from the start, I noticed would bind or stall during a cut with the chain still spinning, do that thing where it just stops cutting with little power getting to the wood like when the chain jumps the track and rides the side of the bar or something.
 

Tim_B.

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I wish they'd sell them this side of the pond that way.
Is the echo bar .050 or .043?
I found this page on Echo's website that seems to indicate a bar with an .043 dimension is available. I'm not quite understanding what the deal is with the chains that match up with it. Maybe your more experienced eye can figure out what is going on. Plus, it is late, and I am tired at the moment. Apologies for not running it down further.

Here is the link to the Echo web page that shows that a .043 bar is available for the 2511.

https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Accessories/Chainsaw-Accessories/Bars/12-A0CD-Bar

Thanks for your time.

Tim
 

SeanKroll

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I picked up my 193t today, as the Echo is dull ATM, and thought, do I really want to use this heavy thing, or should I just take my silky up for some hangers/ couple broken branches?
 

Nutball

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I found this page on Echo's website that seems to indicate a bar with an .043 dimension is available. I'm not quite understanding what the deal is with the chains that match up with it. Maybe your more experienced eye can figure out what is going on. Plus, it is late, and I am tired at the moment. Apologies for not running it down further.

Here is the link to the Echo web page that shows that a .043 bar is available for the 2511.

https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Accessories/Chainsaw-Accessories/Bars/12-A0CD-Bar

Thanks for your time.

Tim
That's 3/8 .043, we want 1/4 .043


One potential problem I see with the 2511t is the shape of the inside of the oil tank, and the huge fuel cap retainer rings they use. They could have used the ball in slot method like Stihl, so the rings wouldn't block line movement. And when making long deep horizontal cuts with the clutch side up, the oil clunk can't reach the area near the oil cap beside the cooling fan because both the cap ring and the bulge of the cooling fan housing get in the way due to the angle required by the fuel line cuz of where it attaches. So, I'd expect potential chain seizing and slow cuts below half a tank of oil.
 

Jonny

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Re. the bar debate. I got an Echo bar with the little 1/4 chain.

Only other mod was the spark arrester removal.
Any significant gains from just removing spark arrestor? My line of thinking is if something goes wrong, pop the screen back in and you're probably still under warranty, just don't tell them. ;)
That warranty is one of the biggest attractions of Echo saws to me.
 

Nutball

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You could buy a separate muffler to modify, and swap it back to stock if there's a warranty issue, just be sure to get some run time on the stock muffler (like 20 tanks), so it looks legit.
 

Nutball

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All the 2511t's I've looked in have no cat! Kinda strange considering the first one Mitch ported did have a cat. It just has a middle layer of sheet metal and 3 probably 3/16" holes in it as best as I can remember.

But bypassing the cat would help flow anyways as it tends to involve another external hole.
 
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