Easy drop

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Same thing here on a simple easy drop, wide-open
DZ, just to gut the hinge out a little without taking the time change position. Only difference is this was on the back cut.

Rico freaked out and called it sloppy saw work because it wasn't a perfectly straight hinge. Glad to see you've transcended that stuck in the box orthodoxy of how a hinge "SHOULD" look.
irregular hinge.jpg
 
But the OP hinge is how it should look.

The second hinge looks like you were unaware of where the tip of you bar was.

I could be wrong, but if you were going to gut the hinge from the back why didn’t you poke the nose of the bar through the hinge and actually cut it?
 
biggun said:
But the OP hinge is how it should look.

The second hinge looks like you were unaware of where the tip of you bar was.

I could be wrong, but if you were going to gut the hinge from the back why didn’t you poke the nose of the bar through the hinge and actually cut it?
Click to expand...

Nearly 40 years and some of the most accurate drops that have ever been shown on video along with novel cutting and rigging techniques. The tip of the bar in the above pic is a long way off to be unaware of where the tip was. It was simply a fast and easy way of removing material from the center of the hinge without compromising the integrity of the corners on a drop that was basically wide open.

The fact that you use the word "Should" indicates an in the box mentality. Which is a given around here!
 
First look Daniel's cut looks wonky till you spot that the trunk isn't a circle, and then spot the left triangular area x radius (for side load resistance) is about the same as the more chunky rectangular wood on the right. The area x radius idea is like the upper and lower sections of an I beam or some such cross section. En - gin- eering math type stuff. Weird cut shape I guess is just due where you stick the saw in from,, i.e. the safety position. My take on it.

Tickling the centre wood of a hinge vs the whole hinge thickness makes engineering sense re the I beam concept. More effectiveness at the edges in side load and remove the felling-bend resistance progressively till she moves. Makes sense?
 
Burnham, do you ascribe to the uniform hinge thickness method for a particular reason? Maybe enlighten me on some details, perhaps fiber behaviour or other stuff. Hinge thickness compromises I-beam principle benefit? Wood species? I'm ready to learn. I'm not a west coast guy.
 
Bart said:
First look Daniel's cut looks wonky till you spot that the trunk isn't a circle, and then spot the left triangular area x radius (for side load resistance) is about the same as the more chunky rectangular wood on the right. The area x radius idea is like the upper and lower sections of an I beam or some such cross section. En - gin- eering math type stuff. Weird cut shape I guess is just due where you stick the saw in from,, i.e. the safety position. My take on it.

Tickling the centre wood of a hinge vs the whole hinge thickness makes engineering sense re the I beam concept. More effectiveness at the edges in side load and remove the felling-bend resistance progressively till she moves. Makes sense?
Click to expand...

Sure, Bart. Thanks. Only...you can take your "En - gin- eering math type stuff" elsewhere, for my money. I'm college educated and bachelor of science degreed, I can work circles around most folks at in head math, and I don't think much of your attitude right there, sorry to be a prickly old bastard :). "Weird cut shape I guess is just due where you stick the saw in from,, i.e. the safety position. My take on it." There, your take is not really too smart. If you want a particular shape to your hinge, you cut it that way, no B.S. about how it wasn't easy to do, so you just did it shitty instead.

First...I do not see that Daniel's gutted hinge presents a balanced load to the outer hinge wings left to support the fell. But that's just my eye, based on over 40 years of felling, but I don't mean to say I'm infallible. I didn't try to measure out the square inches to square inches balance.

Second...it does not matter a whit that the trunk of a tree to be felled is a perfect circle or a deeply oblique oval, or somewhere in between. The only thing that matters is how you place the hinge on the shape presented at the point where you set your felling cuts.

And finally...tickling the hinge is what we all sometimes have had to do when we didn't get it right first off in shaping that hinge. I agree with your general premise in your last paragraph, but that's what we do after we've not got it right at first...me included.

Thanks for the questions, Bart. Hope I made some sense, and please ask if you wish more details. There are many cutters here that can answer as well, or likely better than I can.
 
Appreciate the reply. Just give the mech eng stuff a bit of a second look. It's well proven in a lot of stuff. By the way I do pretty much all of my design stuff intuitively and only use the calculator for adding and subtracting mill dimensions these days. Thanks again.
 
Respectfully, no. Engineering is simply developing mathematical models to try to simulate the real world, and despite how good they are getting, it's still just a simulation. I would take Burnham's half century of experience over that shit any day. Respectfully, a guy who has repeatedly told engineers that they are dumber than shit, and was right to do so, and was almost an engineer himself.
 
I thought you were my metal working bud? I'm not one of those guys. I know the type you mean and I don't like them either. I'm from R&D where you tend to disprove and fix simplifications from models by building real stuff. No disrespect intended to Burnham at all, just looking for more depth to bolster using straight hinges (I think that's the issue but the nuances may have escaped me). Think of me as a junior Spidey absorbing knowledge. Best to all.
 
I'm kinda a grumpy pipefitter, who's just tired of the same type of guys trying to reinvent the wheel, but telling me to build the wheel but it's a square :lol:
 
Bart, nothing I have ever posted anywhere on this forum suggests that your "straight hinges" is the only way to proceed with a felling cut. I don't think anything of the sort, nor get why you believe that I do so.
 
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