Deadwooding, sizes.

I was just starting out and hadn't come to my own conclusions yet about what work is worth it, and what work isn't. Still all starry eyed and eager to jump on anything that came my way. The HO was a wretched bitch and after the fact I learned that she was a constant headache for contractors. I saw her at a gas station about 3 days ago and remembered her name, face, and vehicle in an instant.
 
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Exactly. In the early days I probably would have taken it too, thinking if it can be done, I should be able to do it. Now? Nope.
 
I've been doing a LOT of deawooding lately, Cupressus sp.
One group of three each is 60', each tree (done two) has taken me a day and a half ALL handsaw except about three cuts with 200.
Today was a macrocarpa, the one with the yellow tinge...got like ten more of this one property, nice to have work to fill in the gaps when I need to.

Question though, when the trees are old do you ever leave some framework of the larger dead stuff, I do have some questions about ongoing stability, the trees have developed over time with all that dead in the interior, surely taking most of it out will alter the windflow and stresses, or would it not be enough to matter seriously?
 
Question though, when the trees are old do you ever leave some framework of the larger dead stuff, I do have some questions about ongoing stability, the trees have developed over time with all that dead in the interior, surely taking most of it out will alter the windflow and stresses, or would it not be enough to matter seriously?
Fiona, I think at that point it's time to convince the customer to remove the tree completely. A propped up tree can be a liability .
 
Fiona, I will on Manzanita. It actually holds the tree together in my experiences in the past. But we are talking more snow load issues on a more shrub like tree. The dead twigs help keep the larger live limbs from tear out from the trunk or a leader. Snow might still snap some smaller live branches, but the main will still be intact at it's attachment point instead of tearing off.

The other scenarios I leave dead in the tree (assuming no targets of consequence) Will be a dead limb holding another up that will fail with out it until a future time when it can be cabled or develop some good strong callous to hold it up better. Like a laterally split limb on one of our species of oaks up here. They are good compartmentalisers and I have seen limbs hold up with a lateral crack from snow load hold fine for years.
This would be on a significant limb that I would rather not have to remove if possible. Something that would leave a large hole in canopy or large wound at the tree.
The other example would be a limb left for habitat. Wood peckers etc that already reside there. If the limb is no threat to a target, best left so the little critters that use it still have a home.
Too many times is some habitat removed and then the wood peckers decide the house trim is a better target for pecking.. .Sometimes I swear it's revenge :lol:
 
Fine pruning to me is 1/2" diameter and greater. If the tree is further away from the home I might spec in 3/4". I ask the client what they want to begin with, if it is just major deadwood I'll let the spec it by having the point out what they want out and bid for that. Everyone's idea of major is different
 
I always get what the groundsman can see as that view is usually a better perspective. Clearly defined proposals is a must on stuff like that, a lesson learned the hard way for me once.

Good point there. I always try to have a coworker on the ground check for visible dead or other uglies before coming down or moving on to the next section. I tend to have a bad eye and miss things from time to time. Going back up for that one ugly branch sure sucks.
 
I am with you on that one Leon. I always have Kat or Rob take a second look for me while I am up the tree. They have the customers perspective and god only knows I have missed something from time to time.
 
I don't have to worry about snow, more concerned with wind. Old macrocarpas or other cupressus sp. that when deadwooded now present a more open framework, wind loading will have changed...I can't quite decide whether opening it up by removing copious deadwood for wind (and light, the benefit to the garden below, the reason to deadwood in the first place) to then filter through the tree will adversely affect the balance of branches that up to that point would have developed for wind going mostly around and over the canopy, to the point where you'd get large branch failure. I don't have enough track record with these trees.

I have noticed a few smaller live branches <2" that have toppled over after deadwooding, they were somewhat attenuated from having to grow through the accumulated deadwood before, figuring its like releasing a too tightly staked and guyed tree it has no stem taper and the first gust pushes it over...small branches are no problem, just cut them out if they fail the big ones I have started to wonder about.
 
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