best hitch cord you've found

  • Thread starter wll
  • Start date
  • Replies 55
  • Views 5K
Chip, I don't splice my hitch cords but I found the exact same differences between 5/16" cord and 3/8" cord. The 5/16" would always end up binding after some use but the 3/8" is much smoother and more predictable. It also doesn't get as hot since there is more area to disperse the friction heat.
 
I've even found that the humidity can affect the performance of your hitch. I have to add a wrap to my vt when its raining - I assume the water lubricates the knot a bit. Other factors include the knot, type of cord, type of climbing line, climber's weight, used with or w/out a friction saver, length & frequency of descents, etc. If you are only thinking about what kind of cord to use, you're missing the bigger picture.
 
That's why I am trying different cords and set ups for just that reason.. Often times I am finding some things work better than others in different circumstances. ;)
 
I have done some climbing the last couple days so I guess I am qualified to contribute to this thread.

First HRC is a good cord. I have been riding on it for awhile. I'll give it two thumbs up.

I would like to say that it works really good for a VT, as long as the VT is as short as you can get by with.

I wasn't real happy with my VT as short as it was. It was more a peave thing more than anything. I made a new cord and added a little length. That was kind of a mistake as the hitch needed to be minded more to get it to set properly. I never had this problem with the poly cords but HRC is just stiff enough that it won't set to good by itself if tied a little too long. This has been my expeience with HRC so far on my Blue Streak.

Of course it might depend on how you tie a VT also.
 
Chip, I don't splice my hitch cords but I found the exact same differences between 5/16" cord and 3/8" cord. The 5/16" would always end up binding after some use but the 3/8" is much smoother and more predictable. It also doesn't get as hot since there is more area to disperse the friction heat.

Take it a step further. For a while I was using a 7/16 double braid knotted for a hitch cord and I loved it. It was super smooth, didn't get as hot, was easier to grab on to.

that was back when I was flying on the distel. It might be different these days- but I liked it then.

love
nick
 
I'm flying 10mm Bee Line right now and I like it a lot. In it's current configuration, it's super smooth and bites onto the rope with no problem.

I also recently spliced up some HRC I ordered and I can't wait to try it out when I get the chance. I've heard a lot of good things about it, so it'll be fun to try.
 
Bump... surely there has been new hitch cord that has come out in the last decade.

Do you like a cord that has 100 technora or aramid? Or do you like a little blend? If it's blended does it melt at all when decend quickly?

I have been using this stuff from a local climbing store that has worked fine but it's a little grabbing because it's a little small but that's all they have locally. So Im thinking about buying a one or two lenghts of beeline EPICord Donaghys Armor-Prus and even ice tail because it's cheaper but they all aren't 100 percent fancy thread so I'm wondering how they hold up to heat.

How do those blended cord compare to an cord like samson bailout with its 100 percent of aramid or HRC by teufelberger with its technora/ nomex?

Is there any difference in the bee line with the different color combos they have come out with? Black? Tan/blue? Tan/red? The original color scheme?
 
Last edited:
All of the ones you mention are good choices. I haven't done much hitch climbing In the past 5 years, but remember liking HRC, armor-prus, icetail with a full crossover splice, and 9 mm epicord. Also liked 10mm ocean poly and 10mm beeline. Really they are all pretty Good, and trial Is tha only easy fir you to find out What ya like
 
Wesspur has sampler packs...


I keep going back to 10mm beeline, but 10mm ocean is making a strong showing. I need to spend more time with it. There's no accounting for taste, and hitch cord's relatively inexpensive as far as this stuff goes, so I'll second trying a selection, and see what you really like.
 
I was almost gonna say the rope runner pro, but didn't :lol: i haven't climbed much in the last year but the difference is huge. It'll pay for itself before you even break a sweat and everything after you will wonder why you waited so long. It's glorious man, it feels like a magical pulley when tending slack and its amazing to rappel on. There's other devices that are also amazing, i just haven't used them. I was the same for a long time with just using a hitch and since I'm part time it didn't fit the bill for a need since the wrench i had worked great. But it's the one thing you use the entire time you're climbing, so the bump in ease of use and efficiency is stunning. For me it makes climbing far more enjoyable since you don't fight anything, it just works flawlessly and can do things a hitch never could. Kinda like using a foot ascender for the first time.

I haven't done much hitch climbing In the past 5 years
 
I still use a HitchClimber setup occasionally, but spend more time on the Akimbos than anything else.

Big fan of Samson UltraTech 5/16”, but I also use 8mm BeeLine, 8mm HRC, and the little piece of 9.3mm Epicord that came with the HitchHiker2.
 
What the heck is a flippy cap? If it has threads as good as what's the best oil ? I can't believe I haven heard of it. Cough... KLOTZ....cough... :evil::cry::dude::eek3::stoopyd::walk:
 
The problem as I see it is having to use a damned scrench to get a lid off. Over engineered? Possibly. Germans are good for that. The only other cap I like is on my poulans. Husky may use the same style, but I've never run a Husky. The caps on those bottom out, so they're never too tight. You screw them all the way, and they're never too tight, and so far, never leak.
 
I think stihl could have made the threaded area taller or shorter I'm not sure which way. But every time I take my oil cap off I have to use a towel to wipe all the wood chips from getting into my tank. The gas one isn't as bad because it doesn't see as many chips or it isn't sticky like the oil not because it's a better design.
 
Last edited:
Bailout, HRC, Beeline, we’re the cords I used the most in my full-on production days (once I left tautline on manila behind). Now I am 99% mechanicals- Akimbo/RR/RRP/Uni.

John and Mike,
Since you two are close by: I have some EpiCord if you’d like to try a length. Likely several other hitch cords in the splicing corner, too.
 
Thanks Pat, but I already have some epicord. I kind of rejected it, but I think I'll give it another go in a schwabisch. Last couple times up I've used that, and I think with a little tweaking, it might be the hitch I've been looking for.
 
i had watched a video a while ago about its best to have a few different hitches that you know how to tie because on any given day the conditions can vary so much that that the frictions hitches can be affected. i use the distel, icicle, and the vt for climbing hitches and a 4 wrap prusik on my lanyard and a 6 wrap anything i dont want to slip like as a adjustable point on a friction saver or a anchor point for a 5 to 1 mechanical advantage if im am going to be resetting it on the line. one important item i learned also while tying friction hitches is to make sure you cordis straight and doesnt have any twists in the line and while tying it making sure that i dont put any twists or turns in the line helps the hitch be more consistent. when there are twists in the line it makes that part of the line harder and not as supple and more tighter around the host line and less consistent. unless you are putting those twist in intentionally, that is a way to tune your friction hitches to your liking as long as you know what you are doing. since im not super expert i dont mess with any of that and try to tie the hitches the same every time.
 
Back
Top