19mm impact socket works good for clutch removal
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woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Gregg is the head mechanic at Bailey's, it was his suggestion to me if a key ever broke on the type where the key is part of the flywheel. The toothpaste has a fine abrasive in it, so in lieu of having no key to keep the flywheel from turning on the shaft, tightening it down over the grit will keep it from turning. My thinking is that it would work best with an aluminum flywheel over a tapered shaft, I don't know if they all are. Never tried it myself.
C
Chisel Tooth
Guest
I never use an impact on a clutch, as I use a steel piston stop, and there is a very good chance that you can poke a hole through the top of the piston, with the repeted impact action. I use a scrench with a long handle, and if that don't work I use my long 3/8" ratchet.
Magnus
TreeHouser
If piston stopper is needed, the rope trick is my preferred choice.
Piston stop that is of metal and mounted in plugs thread can damage piston and threads in same processes.
I did see a plastic thingi some were you stick in the hole that looks interesting.
Keep in mind the force applied need to go some place. A lot of force mean great risk for damage to something else.
They rarely sit harder then you can tap them of with a rod and hammer.
If they do... Be careful.
Piston stop that is of metal and mounted in plugs thread can damage piston and threads in same processes.
I did see a plastic thingi some were you stick in the hole that looks interesting.
Keep in mind the force applied need to go some place. A lot of force mean great risk for damage to something else.
They rarely sit harder then you can tap them of with a rod and hammer.
If they do... Be careful.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I had a rope ...or piece of one, jam in there once, caught by a ring or something. Kind of a hassle.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Anything you do takes knowledge and know how. There is no tool that replace this.
If you don't have it... Well, then you'll get it.
With piston stop weather it is rope, metal or plastic plug or something else, you can damage piston, cylinder, rod bearings, clutch itself even and more.
With wrench manual or impact you can damage just about anything.
With rod and hammer you can damage a lot to, but usually just fingers so saw is OK.
I think it is best to go with what works for you. I use impact sometimes, one some rare occasions I use piston stop, but don't like it. I mostly knock them of as the one I do mostly agree with it. Not much force, just one hit well placed is all it takes. Less risk to hurt something...
If you don't have it... Well, then you'll get it.
With piston stop weather it is rope, metal or plastic plug or something else, you can damage piston, cylinder, rod bearings, clutch itself even and more.
With wrench manual or impact you can damage just about anything.
With rod and hammer you can damage a lot to, but usually just fingers so saw is OK.
I think it is best to go with what works for you. I use impact sometimes, one some rare occasions I use piston stop, but don't like it. I mostly knock them of as the one I do mostly agree with it. Not much force, just one hit well placed is all it takes. Less risk to hurt something...
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Good tip. It solves the problem of the stupid special wrench designs too.
Magnus
TreeHouser
There are risks to this too.... But with practice it is a safe and fast way to do it.
You can damege clutch and other stuff of it isn't done right.
On most Elux saws you have a place in shoe to hit. On some you can hit on the arm the shoe ride on, some break if you do that...
You can damege clutch and other stuff of it isn't done right.
On most Elux saws you have a place in shoe to hit. On some you can hit on the arm the shoe ride on, some break if you do that...
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Couple things here .The taper as has been mentioned is really what holds the flywheel on .The key just aligns it .
Old trick for a worn taper on a flywheel for whatever reason .Lap it in using fine compound .The steel of the crank won't change much but the aluminum of the flywheel will conform to the taper of the crankshaft .Clean it real good with solvent,you'l never have another problem .
Some clutchs just need a special tool of sorts .Like Cut's 166 Sachs-Dolmar for example or some of the Poulans .Of course you could buy said tool or if you're so inclined ,make one .Then of course you could thump it off with a brass rod and a ball peen hammer but that often isn't the thing to do .
Old trick for a worn taper on a flywheel for whatever reason .Lap it in using fine compound .The steel of the crank won't change much but the aluminum of the flywheel will conform to the taper of the crankshaft .Clean it real good with solvent,you'l never have another problem .
Some clutchs just need a special tool of sorts .Like Cut's 166 Sachs-Dolmar for example or some of the Poulans .Of course you could buy said tool or if you're so inclined ,make one .Then of course you could thump it off with a brass rod and a ball peen hammer but that often isn't the thing to do .
C
Chisel Tooth
Guest
Yes sir AL that works! I use the clover fine lapping compound, of course rebagged as briggs lapping compound. hey it works great!!!
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