039???

Thanks for the comments guys.
CSV, I had a tree service come out Wednesday and take down a 40' decorative pear tree that was crapping messy berries all over my new deck, and I did not let any of them in the shop either!!! LOL
Steve, the tree guy, gave me a deal since I fixed 3 saws, an HT 75, and a trimmer for him. A deal for me too since I used them as training examples at a small engine class I teach at the local community college, so I had students do most of the work. One of the saws was a 390 that the Master Control Lever kept jumping out of place. This is a common problem for that series of saw, and I should have taken a pic of the little metal clip I made to fix it. Maybe next time...
 
When I was a farmer I had a couple of 290s and they were a way better saw than anything I had before them. Homelite and Echo. When I bought my bucket truck I got an 046 with it and since having that the 290 is now kind of weak and really will only cut wood that you could cut with a 200T. Anyway I'm agreeing with you sawcollector that the Stihl homeowner saws are good, but the pro saws are better. Oh, and I could have your shop looking like crap in a couple of weeks.:)
 
Yes, it's a homeowner model. It's one of the 029/ 031/ 039 series. They're all the same saw except for different displacement.
Click to expand...

The 031 was it's own saw, metal case and handle. The 031 and the 310 are not the same saw....only saws in the 0XX to XX0 conversion that don't match up. Just a bit o' trivia....;)
 
You're right, Jeff. The original 031 dates back a few years, back to Al's time period. :P Here's one I fixed up for my stump guy. It's nothing like the 290/ 310/ 390 series.
 
Skwerl, that is a nice looking saw, good job. I have a 031 and 032 box jobs that I am still hunting some parts for. Have you ever done the ignition conversion to use the coil off of a FS 72? I have some coils and know it will work, just haven't tried it yet.

Yes FishHuntCutWood the model conversion can be confusing. STIHL started changing all the 0XX model designations around 2000. It helps to know the series numbers for the different STIHL saw models, and not everyone is even aware of it. here is the basic list:

SERIES MODEL
Gas Powered Chain Saw
1106 090
1107 07
1108 08 S
1109 090 G
1110 041
1111 051, 075, 076
1112 041 G
1113 030, 031, 032
1114 020
1115 045, 056
1116 015
1117 042, 048
1118 028
1119 038
1120 009, 010, 011, 012
1121 024, 026, MS 260
1122 064, 066, MS 650, MS 660
1123 021, 023, 025, MS 210, MS 250
1124 084, 088, MS 880
1125 034, 036, MS 360
1127 029, 039, MS 290, MS 310, MS 390
1128 044, 046, MS 440, MS 460
1129 020 T, MS 200 T
1130 017, 018, MS 170, MS 180
1132 019 T, MS 191T
1133 MS 270, MS 280
1135 MS 361
1137 MS 192
1138 MS 441
1139 MS 171, MS 181, MS 211


As you can see by the 1127 series, there never was a 031 as a 1127, the MS 310 came out later after the switch to MS XXX. The original 030, 031, 032 is a 1113 series. Knowing the series number helps out on parts too. The first 4 numbers of a part unique to a certain series will always start with the series number. So if you have a stripped down parts saw somebody gives you with no model tag on it anywhere, look on the bottom of the handle housing or anywhere you can find the 11 digit part number. If it starts with 1125 then you now know it is for a 034, 036, or MS 360, so at least you can get close to knowing what it fits. Every new saw will have a new series number, but not every series number assigned to a saw makes it to production, as seen by the gaps in the list.
Another example is the 1114 series saw, which was the old all metal 020. Then it was discontinued and replaced by the 1129 020 which became a MS 200. And I know you tree guys like the MS 200 T a lot. There is no question that it out performs the old 1114 020 and with the use of plastic is also lighter, and might even survive a fall that the old 020 would not.
Progress I guess...
Eddie
 
Excellent reading, Sawcollector!

I recently was asked to repair a modular type designed Husqvarna 333 "Light", a model distributed only in Asia, I believe. No oil coming from the pump was the problem, and accessing to replace pump parts required almost a complete breakdown of the saw, down to dis-assembly of the engine pan. The lower half has a large metal wing as part of it's assembly, to which most of the saw housing and spring mounts are bolted to, and in which is contained the oil pump. The crankshaft had to be exposed to get to the oil pump.

At first, it was hard to fathom why anybody would design a saw this way, the trouble to do repairs, but as you point out, cost saving production and at least in the case of the 333, also light weight are the priorities. My ineptitude in sorting out the problem, required breaking down and re-assembly three times. The last time went very quickly, so it seemed to me that anyone completely familiar with the process, can move through those modular type designed saws rather fast and efficiently....say maybe double or a bit more than your five minutes as on the 361. As I say, it was a Husky, haven't gone to depths yet on a Stihl of that type.

I had never worked on a modular type design before, and it was an excellent learning experience, although getting down to fixing the problem required more work than I had anticipated.

You illustrate the points very well. :)
 
sawcollector said:
One of the saws was a 390 that the Master Control Lever kept jumping out of place. This is a common problem for that series of saw, and I should have taken a pic of the little metal clip I made to fix it. Maybe next time...
Click to expand...

I would always take a paper clip and get it hot and melt a small hole in front of the control lever plastic. Then kinda "lace" the lever in there with really small safety wire. Always worked for me and doesn't take very long to do.
 
031AV, first saw I ever ran. Still have it. It's in pretty good shape, but not as nice as the one in Skwerls pic.
 
JIML said:
I would always take a paper clip and get it hot and melt a small hole in front of the control lever plastic. Then kinda "lace" the lever in there with really small safety wire. Always worked for me and doesn't take very long to do.
Click to expand...

Awesome idea, I will try that next time!!!!
 
Thank-you so much Sawcollector for those series numbers.

I have been meaning to start a thread if anyone had those numbers. I have so many darn accumulated little parts in unopened plastic bags that I have forgotten which saws they go to. Normally I put the model number on them when I get them but sometimes I forget to do that. Then you stumble across them later down the road and wonder what saw they belong to.

I would also like to add I have enjoyed reading your posts. Very informative and helpful.

I hope you plan to stick around awhile.
 
Thanks for the encouraging comments, guys! I enjoy this forum a lot more than AS...
Larry, since you are interested here is some more info on STIHL part numbers. First of all be aware that there is a lot of parts overlapping with series numbers. So if a part comes out new for a new model, it will have the new series number as the first four digits of the part number, but the part may end up being carried over to new series numbers later if it will work OK, like side covers, clutches, clutch drums, gaskets and such. Take the 1128 160 2004 clutch for a MS 361 for example. 1128 is the series number for the 044, 046, etc. saw. But the clutch has continued to be used on new units introduced since then, which makes good sense. Why have a new clutch for every new saw when one you have already have will work. In manufacturing this is called parts standardization, to keep costs down by volume use.
The middle three numbers designate certain groups of parts, for instance all clutch assemblies will have 160 as the middle three numbers, cylinders will always be 020, pistons 030. So if I need a piston for a MS 260, I already know the part number will be 1121 030 XXXX.
So the last four numbers is where the individual part gets it's unique part number. If I go to the MS 260 IPL and look at the pistons available, I see that the current piston is a 1121 030 2003, and is 44.7 mm in diameter. Looking down I see a 1121 030 2001 piston that is 44mm across, for previous models. So if there is a change to a part the last numbers will be where that is indicated.
STIHL parts lookup is somewhat complicated, but there is a method to the madness once you understand it a little.
So if you have a part laying around at least you can know where it originated. If you are not sure where it is used send me the part number and I can do a search on the IPL software and it will tell me where it is used.
Eddie
 
sawcollector said:
Thanks for the encouraging comments, guys! I enjoy this forum a lot more than AS...
Click to expand...

Thanks Eddie, and I hope you spread the word amongst your friends. We need all the saw gurus we can get... it's mostly a bunch of friggin climbers here!
cheers2.gif
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #43
sawcollector said:
Thanks for the encouraging comments, guys! I enjoy this forum a lot more than AS...
Click to expand...
So do we .Speaking of which though ,those jerks banned a member of another web forum I visit on what he said on that site ,not the site they moderate .Talk about stepping over the line ,good grief .:(
 
So Al, what you are saying is that if I was a member at AS, and I said something here they didn't like, they would ban me there?:O
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #46
It's happened before ,several times .Fact is I don't doubt that guy I was just refering to won't be here in a short and maybe tell the tale .

Slight derail ,back to the 039 .:)
 
That was a super cool 8)8) post on the part numbers Sawcollector. Very informative . I actually learned something.

I hope you or we don't run out of topics for you to post on.
 
Wow, keep posting man. I am a Stihl fanatic thanks for the info. 8)
 

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