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In my opinion a borecut or gutted hinge can be made stronger than one which is not. Reason being, the wood in the sides of the hinge is what really holds and directs the tree. If you doubt this, nip the sides out of a hinge on a leaner and see what happens ( keep an escape route ready!!). By...

That is an old discussion, the narrower facecut gives you more lever action when you wedge, the deeper face changes the balance of the tree. Which to use is hard to say, in this case tradition ( Europe/ US) is what makes one use one or the other, I think. Husky D, when I saw those wedge...

Hey Husky D, you must have pulled REALLY hard on the old felling bar to make that mark on the tree in your avatar:P

The one in the picture is sold by Husqvarna over here, but Stihl has one just like it in their european catalogue. They work great for dead ashtrees because those are not topheavy and therefore usually real easy to lever over.

The felling bar I like, ( the type in the pic) is about 4 feet long and the "head" is about as wide as a small wedge. So it'll hold the kerf open against a moderate back lean. I always keep a wedge and hammer by my gas/oil cannister to use if the tree proves to be too much for the bar to lever...

Burnham, do you really mean that using wedges on trees that small would be better/faster than using a long felling bar? I've spend a large ( way too large actually, it's not fun work) part of my youth thinning trees like those for pulpwood. Usually a stand of trees will have a common lean...

For that size of trees, definitely felling bar. Just keep a couple of wedges near by, in case there is a tree you can't lever over with the bar. The felling bar in the picture is the short model, Stihl makes one that is about 3½ feet long, that works a lot better. Gives you lots of leverage.