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Al, if the trees are 24 inches or bigger, the 12's are fine. The reason the longer wedges work better is that they offer the same lift in a longer ramp than a short wedge does, which means you have more mechanical advantage. If you are shredding your plastic wedges in as few trees as that...

SOP here, Sean...both the bore and the chainsaw trimming of mushroomed wedges. Good on ya for figuring 'em out w/o prompting from another...I sure didn't, had to be taught both tricks. There are potential pitfalls in boring into a closed kerf to get a setback started forward. The bigger one...

I have one very elderly steel felling wedge, from the old days. Thin as a razor at the tip, not much lift...but if you screw up and let the kerf close on you this thing can save the day.

Just for giggles, what's your asking price?

:D

:thumbup:

Stick that lever in something like this, with a little bit of back lean...let's see what kind of lift you get :\:. :P :lol: ;)

Right you are, a little 5 incher is a great item to keep at hand.

That technique doesn't keep the wedge from bottoming out on the back side of the hinge if you have to lift it much to commit to the face...just ensures you can get a wedge in the back cut :).

That would probably work just fine Brendon, but there is no real reason not to overlap the cuts above the bored slot for the wedge. Nick and Rajan...Bren is showing the back cut procedure. The face cut would be on the opposite side of the tree and be normal.

Listen to Bermy...she knows all there is to know about felling small trees :/:. :P ;)

Both true, I'm sure. Might provide a bit much in the lift department as well, no? :D

Live and learn, Al...or ask questions at the TreeHouse :D.

First off, I refuse to consider the quarter cut an Ekka cut :what:...we've been using that cut out here on the left coast for a long time, way before Ekka ever thought about treework. He deserves no credit whatsoever. It's my preference for getting a wedge in on small diameter trees. But I...