260 carb kit

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Greenhorn

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Tired of paying and waiting for second rate work so tackling this one myself. I have worked on lots of other carbs but stayed out of saw carbs because they seemed like a PITA, little tiny things crammed in with linkages and lines everywhere.

So if they did sell me the right rebuild kit I am about to get with it in the garage.

Suggestions/tips from you guys that could do one in your sleep?:D?

THANKS
 
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  • #2
Ok got 90% of parts than came with kit replaced. Tiny little o-ring left and then a little oval thin replacement cap, kinda looks like it might go over an adjustment of sorts that is "capped off". Then a replacement e-clip that goes on the actual valve shaft - kinda wondering why you would need to pull it out......
 
There will be extra parts in the kit since each kit typically covers several model variations for that carb (or series of carbs).
 
Actuallly a simple rekit is pretty easy .Just make sure you set the fuel lever correctly and don't get the parts in out of order .The diaphragm spacer gasket installed on the wrong side of the diaphragm has caused many a person lots of fits, including myself .

Very seldom will you need to totally field strip one like take the welch plugs out .
 
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Wasn't too bad, and saw seems to run alot better. Haven't gotten it in wood yet though.

I couldnt find the culprit for low power and crappy idling though, just replaced everything and it seems better.

Maybe the diaphragms just weak?? I am more used to carbs with floats, etc. Not sure I get how the valve stops the fuel flow on these carbs without bowls/floats?

So far the 11 bucks for rebuild kit is way better than the 75-100 bill I am used to for the standard carb kit/labor and plug change routine.
 
Greenhorn said:
Maybe the diaphragms just weak?? I am more used to carbs with floats, etc. Not sure I get how the valve stops the fuel flow on these carbs without bowls/floats?
Click to expand...
Simple if you think about it .One side of the diaphragm holds the gas ,connected to the crankcase via the fuel pump check valves where the impulse comes from .The other side is directly connected to atmosphere .This pulsation from pressure to vacuum causes the pumping action .

When the gas side of the diaphragm is extended it pushes down on the fuel lever allowing fuel in .When it's relaxed it shuts the fuel off .They get stiff after a period of time and either don't let the fuel in or just flood the saw .
 
Al, that was such a good explanation it even made sense to me. Thanks.
 
Well good .Stick with me kid I'll have to farting through silk underwear .:lol:

I could throw a wrench in the works and delve into a Tilley HL with a double pumper except for the fact they confuse me .Too many check valves, I get lost .
 
Well BVD's were invented about the same time as zippers on mens trousers as a safety device to prevent zipping one's Johnson up in your pants .This unfortunate act will cause grown men to howl like puppies .:O
 
Civilization is over rated. I wear undies btw, just not silk ones. I never would have imagined Butch to have such delicate sensiblities.:lol:
 
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