Thwarted!

Dave Shepard

Dave Shepard

Square peg, round world.
Joined
Oct 28, 2007
Messages
6,641
Location
Alford, MA
This afternoon my 394 was as disassembled as it could possibly be, save for the carb, which was already rebuilt. I got the entire thing reassembled except the flywheel, coil, and recoil. I couldn't find the woodruff key for the flywheel.:( That's the only missing part, and all else is accounted for. This saw has been dead since '04, apart since '07, and pieces scattered all over the dang place. It's a miracle that all I lost was the key. Anybody know if the coil needs to be set out from the flywheeel, and how far? thanks.:roll:


Somewhere in this photo is a miniature woodruff key. Maybe I should clean up next time.:/:
 

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Betcha you could find a key fairly easily either by researching the exact size and getting one from a hardware store, or by getting a used one off a dead saw (check local saw shops). Or maybe just call up Bailey's and have them mail you one. :)
 
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I'm going to call a couple of saw shops tomorrow. Might get lucky. If not, I'll order it up from the Husky dealer. He's been really good about getting parts, and they have been the cheapest as well. I rooted around on the floor (dirt) with a cow magnet, but I didn't find it. I thought I found it once, but it was only a woodruff shaped beetle. Sneaky little bugger.:/:
 
So when do you plan to have it running? Going to run it or flip it on ebay?
 
It should be a standard metric woodruff key .About any good automotive parts supplier should have a selection of them but it would most likely be faster to find a stocking Husky dealer . Around these parts they are rare as a hens tooth .
 
If you want to run it without the key, and it has a tapered shaft, just put some toothpaste in there and tighten it down good.
 
John. It was probably one of those special aluminium magnets. I think they were produced by the Obama staff.
 
I'm not sure if all are steel but all of them I've fiddled with are .

They tell me some of the little Huskies had the key cast in the flywheel ,can't say aye or nay to that one .
 
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I tried to find one locally, but no go. I got a standard 1/8" one, and I'll lap it down to size.:/: It's only for timing, so it doesn't have to be special, or even have to be there, other than to make sure you get the flywheel in the right place.
 
The taper on the crank/flywheel is actualy what holds it in place .The keyway is just for reference .

Tooth paste has a very very light abbrasive in it thus gripping the metal surfaces better . Old ,old trick .;)
 
Al Smith said:
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Tooth paste has a very very light abbrasive in it thus gripping the metal surfaces better . Old ,old trick .;)
Click to expand...

Impressive! Whoever thought of that musta had a real feel for the mechanics of things.
 
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  • #18
Just spent an hour honing a .125" key down to a .116 key, and the flywheel flops like a dying fish.:? The new key is tight in the keyway, but getting maybe 5-10 degrees of radial movement on the flywheel. I've got two keys on order, but they won't be in until next friday. I'm going out to shovel my garage floor through a window screen.:roll::cry:
 
Most likely it is an RCH too high . Cut it down a tad then rest the clutch side shaft on a support and smack the flywheel with a dead blow hammer .That will stop the shake rattle and roll unless the key is too high .
 
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I'll go give that a try. I measured it, but it was close. The key is so small, there isn't much to hang on to for filing purposes. What a PITA. It seems that no matter where I go for parts, regardless of brand, nobody stocks anything.:( No carb kits, no this, no that. If you aren't buying bar oil or a new saw, your out of luck. If the filing doesn't work, I'll be sifting. Thanks.
 
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  • #21
That seemed to do the trick Al, thanks. I got it all back together, set the carb to factory baseline, and pulled like a madman for a bit and it fired up. It idles and revs pretty good just the way it was set. I'll run it some more tomorrow, and do some fine tuning. I didn't do any muffler modding, or remove the base gasket yet. I'll cut some firewood with it, and then check the squish, take the cylinder off, and do the port and polish to it. It's been enough of a journey without throwing wild cards into the mix. It was a real Holy S#!t it works moment when it lit up for the first time.8)


Piston and rings $30
Bearings $25
Gaskets $13
Seals (4) $50 :roll:

$118, better than buying a $1100 saw.:D
 
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  • #25
Here's a couple of quick shots of my first cookie cutting. You've got to have a cookie log if you're going to be a hot rod saw tuner, right?:|::lol: I've always like the handling of the Husky spring suspension, it's been a while since I've run one. Solid, yet almost no vibration.8) Don't report my saw handling to the internet safety gods.:/::P
 

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