Sharpening

I think not dragging the file on the backstroke makes them last longer. Also banging the chips out. Oily chain makes the chips stick to the file, so if I have the time and patience sometimes I swab out the teeth with a rag first to get the oil off.

There is a flat stamped sheet metal guide I used for a couple years. It helps you develop an eye for angles and depth. I finally tossed it and went to freehand.
 
If you take a peice of standard blackboard chalk and rub the file on that it will keep from filling the teeth also. I do this when I sharpen broadheads. I think you would have to clean the chain first or the oil and chalk would get to be a gummy mess.
 
I use borazon wheels and sharpen a bucket full at a time.

I've got a Borazon wheel. Expensive (300 bucks), but they cut the tooth, rather than grind the tooth. And dont seem to heat up the tooth either. But, they don't cut very smooth.
Also they last a very long time. I have had mine for a couple of years and it cuts just as good today as when I bought it.
 
For what it's worth all grinding is a form of cutting .

A wheel,whatever it's made of will not burn if it is clean .It's when it loads up with grinding residue that the actual burn comes into play .

If you had ever been around any industrial grinding operations you would know exactly what I'm talking about .
 
I've got a Borazon wheel. Expensive (300 bucks), but they cut the tooth, rather than grind the tooth. And dont seem to heat up the tooth either. But, they don't cut very smooth.
Also they last a very long time. I have had mine for a couple of years and it cuts just as good today as when I bought it.

Frans I get my wheels from these folks. Last time I ordered some they were on sale for like 80.00 bucks. I have had good luck with them they cut cool, smooth, and last a long time.
https://shop-foley-belsaw.com/foley/5.cat
 
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  • #58
Well, my new vise works tits! Along with a new file, because the vise is at chest level, I can get the angle's better it seems. Saw's were ripping today!
 
You're showing your age, Burnham. I haven't gotten a free depth gauge with a new saw purchase in over 20 years! :lol:

Damn!...and I've been working so hard to keep my age from showing, too...:D

That must be why my depth guage is looking a little the worse for wear :).
 
You're showing your age, Burnham. I haven't gotten a free depth gauge with a new saw purchase in over 20 years! :lol:

Damn!...and I've been working so hard to keep my age from showing, too...:D

That must be why my depth guage is looking a little the worse for wear :).

Now that you mention it, I recall being underwhelmed with the tool kits from the last few saws...
 
They make a "stump " vise for those inclined to use it.I've got one made by Stihl,someplace but I know not where in all my junk .
 

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I have a Husqvarna stump vise, cant tell you how well it works, I have only used it twice, not enough to form an opinion :shifty:
 

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You just clamp the thing on the bar,near the end and rest the saw on a log or something,back of the pick-em-up ,whatever .
 
Al, I think the idea is to hammer the vise down into a stump or round of wood, stabilizing it. The slot at the top of the points alows a pry bar entry to remove it.
 
What does the cutting on a saw tooth is the very thin layer of chrome. The body of the tooth is soft steel.

When you file, you cut the tooth into the proper shape/angle(s) etc.
As you push the file through it's stroke, the outer layer of chrome peels away.
This peel (like an orange rind) peels backward and generally stays hanging on the tooth.
Flicking it off with your finger nail, or lightly dragging backward through the stroke does not effect the way the tooth cuts, only removes the peel of chrome.
If you are dragging the file forcefully, it will perhaps dull the file and broaden the cutting edge. Which will make the chain cut slower.
IMO
 
You guys sharpen chains?
Crazy!! I thought once they got dull you just chucked them and bought new!!!





















Nah, I kid!! I carry spares with me as well. Rocked out chains see the grinder, then a file. I have an old bar I cut down and ground out. One side is .050, the other .063. Pop it in the vise and I am good to go.
 
Brian, First you tell us that filing is like masturbating and then you tell us that you prefer small wooden file handles. What are we supposed to think ? Why did you poison our minds with this excessively personal imformation?:P

Wow. I'm impressed with how much good information has been consolidated in this one thread. And no insulting or condescending remarks, except for Justin's here. :what: At least everybody else has been willing to put forth helpful and useful information.
























:P
 
Anyone think I'm crazy? I bought some ABN Cyclone Wheels today. The first time I have ever bought some.

My rationale for purchasing them are as such:
Faster Grinding
Less heat (cooler grinding)
It will keep its shape
No fine particulate matter in the lungs

Today I had my groundie sharpen about 20 chains today. I heard him coughing. I don't know if the grinding was irritating him or not, but it was "the straw that broke the camel's back" for the purchase.--I've been wanting to get them for a while now, and today was the day to get them.

Please tell me I didn't make a foolish decision.[-o<
 
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