Sharpening Stumpgrinder teeth


Sep 2, 2006
I have a green wheel, and a dust mask. Any tricks to doing it. How far is to far with worn teeth? Pics would be good. I'm using standard teeth. Any good sources for new one, besides the usuall arb supplies?
Leonardi Manufacturing is a great source for new ones. I used up several green wheels over the years before I switched over to a diamond wheel-with the diamond wheel I spritz the wheel with water while sharpening and eliminate heat build up(the killer of diamond surfaces wheels) and dust- I highly recommend the change as worth the high price of a Dwheel. In the mean time. Set your tool rests so that if you lay the shank on it and press the tooth into the wheel with carbide faceing upward you will get the angle you want. A few degrees of relief trailing from the edge are needed -too much cuts aggressively but the edge will quickly break away leaving you with dull teeth. Grind relief on the steel shank with an Al Oxide or other wheel-the steel will be too soft and grabby and will pull the surface off of a green wheel rapidly making lots of dust and wearing your wheel dowh to nothing in short order.After relieving the steel shank press the edge of the carbide/front end of the tooth into the green wheel lightly-pushing hard doesn't cut faster it just wears the wheel out more quickly. Slowly move the tooth back and forth across the face of the wheel as you grind-this willl keep wear even instead of grooving the wheel. I like to pivot the tooth as I traverse it back and forth to create an evenly round profile but you can also grind the very front until you have a small flat of sharp edge the pivot the tooth to create another small flat and create a series of sharp spots then rotate a few passes to even things up.
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  • #4
Thanks Stumper. I 'll give it a go later. Do the standard teeth come in different shank sizes. Prices on the web are from 2 - 5 bucks. Any brand to stay away from?
Oh and No Bivy, when yu get a tooth sharpened bach to less than 3/16ths on an inch of carbide at the outer edges it is time to chuck it. That is a lot of sharpenings and the shank behind the carbide will most likely be well worn by then.
Stumper's got you covered on this one.

As to buying Dwheels they come in different grits. Don't go too fine.
Talk to a place like Production tool supply. Or some one similar in your area.

All you need for water is just a drip line. it doesn't need to run at a hard spray.

As for dust, MB's right if the air flow is bad. Get a good canister mask rated for the material you are grinding.
Thanks Stumper. I 'll give it a go later. Do the standard teeth come in different shank sizes. Prices on the web are from 2 - 5 bucks. Any brand to stay away from?

The "Standard" teeth are 1/2 inch shanks-there are other conventional teeth thta have different sizes but they all have special names to my knowledge. It has been awhile since I ordered from Leonardi but they were running about $3.45 per tooth. Those $2 teeth are most likely made in China. I bought some inadvertantly-they work but the shanks aren't as precise and aren't beveled on the corners making them harder to slip in and out of the pockets- I actually had to grind some of the shanks to make them usable-Skip -em and stick with Leonardi, Border City Tool or Vermeer. BTW Vermeer has thinner carbide and a slightly greater angle on their rights and lefts-They are good teeth but I prefer dealing with Leonardi..Leo offers diferent grades of carbide-Buy the harder ones if you grind in dirt and sand-they'll wear longer between sharpenings-if you work in lots of rock (like I do ) buy the softer ones-they wear quicker but are less likely to shatter.
As for dust, MB's right if the air flow is bad. Get a good canister mask rated for the material you are grinding.
Yes indeedy,grinding of carbine with either diamond or green wheel has been known to cause silicosis[sp] of the lungs.I have a canister mask but I seldom grind carbine for my shop tooling.
I have never put water on the wheel as I assumed it would just fly off due to the high speed of the grinding wheel. I have a little container of water which I dunk the teeth into during sharpening. I will have to try that Stumper. Thanks.
If you have a oxy-actylene outfit you can buy just the carbide and retip the the tooth by brazing if you have the skills to braze which isn't hard. I have the torch and tips and a mega pile of dull teeth but never seem to find the time to retip. Easier to just pick up the phone and order new ones.
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  • #11
I went to Northern Tool looking for the right cannister mask. None we labled for abrasive carbide grinding. Where can I find one.
Easy setup to make yourself a water mister using your air supply and a small hose out of cotainer of water. Heat is your enemy.
Do you do your own oil changes, too ?
There's the ol' TC3 being the bitch that she is...
If you can scarcely afford to hire it out..... DO IT.
Green teeth are made to rotate. Replacement teeth are meant for in-field mishaps. Have the grunts rotate on rainy days.
If you hire everything out, you'll go broke. We all know that. But know when to hire it out.
Get a bench grinder that you can hook a shop vac to for dust collection. And wear the mask.
Well for those who have never ground carbine,it isn't all that easy.That stuff is hard,did I mention hard?On a big chunk the wheel will disappear faster than the tool you are sharpening.Try it some time.
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  • #17
no doubt...I sharpened 30 teeth so least and 1/8 of wheel disappeared..
I'd say MB is in need of a green wheel the next time he visits the dentist, [yeh your thinking like me that o'l be the day he gets his teeth checked] I mean jeez hes got a 'full set to say the least' i'd go as far to say if we all had a set like him, i'd be agreeing with the vegeterian society, man wasn't made to eat meat , more like oats!