Roof work

Burnham

Woods walker
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
23,320
Location
Western Oregon
I've had a less than thrilling job over the last couple of days :). Our house was re-roofed 10 years ago, at which time the then 25 year old plastic attic vents were replaced. This past winter a couple of small leaks showed up on the upstairs ceiling. When I did some inspection, turned out a couple of the vents had cracked and were letting a bit of water in. I sealed them up with roofing cement then, and am now getting to replacing the whole lot of them.

It was a much harder task pulling up the vents and surrounding shingles than replacing...due to use of ice guard underlayment, since that portion of the roof is only 3/12 pitch. That is some really sticky stuff :).

Turned out only 2 of the 5 I replaced had cracked. But sooner or later... The new vents are aluminum.
I have 2 more to do, on the 10/12 pitch section of the roof. That'll be on rope. But no ice shield, so the tear-off should be much easier.

Anyway, got 'er done.

roof vent installation2 001.JPG roof vent installation2 002.JPG roof vent installation2 003.JPG roof vent installation2 005.JPG roof vent installation2 009.JPG
 
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  • #3
Yup, just edited that into my post. Really nicely finished in gloss black enamel.
 
Yea, they look good. I have a couple old steel spinners on my roof, and they're getting kinda decrepit looking. The ones you used would make a good replacement I think.
 
@Bermy the number/size/type of vents is figured by the volume of the space to be ventilated, or square footage of the roof. You need a certain amount of ventilation to keep the roofing materials from overheating and deteriorating before they should.
 
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  • #11
Exactly. And not just the top end vents, but also the lower inlets, so a passive air flow works to optimum advantage...those are usually either soffit vents or gable end vents.
 
I wouldn’t even mess with shingles - metal is the way to go nowadays ... Still have to deal with vents though Henry makes a helluva product
 
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  • #13
Burn, be careful!

Hell, Gigi...compared to so much of my work with climbing, felling and bucking, crazy off the wall rigging, etc...this is as safe as houses. Close to as easy as my rocker of a pretty morning, fresh mug of coffee in hand :D.

I know you are right, of course; and when I undertake something like this my dear Ms. M doesn't let the opportunity pass to remind me I'm no spring chicken these days. So yes ma'am, I am careful...as I always have been.

You don't survive to get to my age, doing the sort of work I have done for 4+ decades, without being at least fairly careful ;).
 
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  • #14
Metal is a fine product for a roof...until it needs working on. I can fix this little issue fairly easily, without taking up huge swathes of roofing as you'd have to do with metal.

And if you need to be on your roof with some regularity to sweep your woodstove flue, it's a dangerous surface to navigate, at best. Any other condition than best, it's impossible.
 
Okey dokey...our roof doesn't have any vents...but it is corrugated metal...
 
"And if you need to be on your roof with some regularity to sweep your woodstove flue, it's a dangerous surface to navigate, at best."

You're spot on there.
My old house had concrete tiles and a bit steeper pitch than yours but I could walk all over it no problem. This house has corrugated metal and it's no fun up there.
 
Now if you'd just used architectural shingles in your repair, inside of those ghastly 3-tabs..... :P
 
Good you picked a sunny day to move about in that roof. As you probably know warm shingles flex not crack on a warm day.
a big cause of fires here in my area was because roof and eve vents sucked in embers.
now the current rage is to install ember proof vents
 
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