Restoring an old saw VS buying a new one.

I was just curious, I ran 064 years ago in College...wasn't sure what was its closest new relative, thought my 462 might be close...ta!
 
It is not.

We use the 661 for large felling job and the 462 for smaller stuff.
661 has quite a bit more grunt.
500i is closer to the 661.
 
Not sure what you mean by 'restoring' an old saw. I have lots of old saws and none have ever been restored. Just maintained and used for years and years, eventually they get old. Not much to go wrong with a saw if you use it properly and fix issues as they occur. The absolute biggest killer of saws (or any piece of equipment) is HEAT. Chainsaws can generate tons of heat if you run them dull. I prefer keeping my saws sharp, but many people seem to think it's perfectly ok to keep running a dull saw until they just can't physically push it through a log any more. Saws used like this you might as well throw them away after a couple years.

If the only problem with the saw is an idle issue, then just fix it. Not a big deal to figure out why it's lean. Most obvious is a carb adjustment, plugged jet or a cracked fuel line. But if the saw was abused for years and the crank seals are cooked (from running the saw dull), then at that point you probably need to replace it.
 
I should probably mention that my opinion stems from the fact that I usually run saws some 1500 hours a year.
I doubt any of the old saw loving arbos here do even half of that.
 
Old saws is not for everyone. Its for those that like a bit tinkering with saws.

If you want a to make money, I am with Stig on this. Get a new, use it and its paid off fast. Then pass it on to a tinkerer before it start to need tinkering.
I love tinkering with saws more than most. I repair and fix as much as I can. Even parts on saws...
 
I have two sets of saws, those for Arb work & those for forestry. The Arb stuff is all older saws, mostly ported & needs a little tlc to keep them running, but he'll do they cut wood. In the woods I run newer more efficient stuff with minor mods & better anti-vibes. For once it seems like I am on trend.
 
An 044 should be fairly easy to find parts for so a rebuild should not be that difficult .My self at this time it
is a rebuild of two Partner p-100's.Those are a challenge to even find the parts for.
Partner being made in Sweden all the parts lists are in Swedish .Might as well be Chinese to me .However the service manuals written in English are the most detailed of any saw I've ever worked on .
Like I've said many times restoration is not for everyone .I've done a lot of it on a lot of things but every so often I just have to walk away before I lose my cool and get medieval with a big ball peen hammer .
 
My big thing is avoiding ownership of the microchip controlled Husqvarna s as they are Bolshevik ... have rebuilt ( or actually paid the dealer) two times in the last few years. Both models are discontinued but parts available ... I believe it a worthwhile investment.
 
Because I'm basically a gear head I find it interesting to see the slight differences in designs of chainsaws .The Germans do it one way ,the Swedes take it a step further .For example these two large Partner P-100's I 'm not sure you could wear out the bearings because they are huge for this types of usage .They even provided a way to lubricate the clutch drum bearing .The seals are standard replacement types CR not some special types used by Stihl that cost a kings ransom ,like 5-7 bucks a pop not 20 and up .
They were not inexpensive though in the day. 1982 A P100 Super with a 36" bar and chain was $689 with a 36" bar and chain .The concrete saw version ,the K1200 was over $1000 .BTW the concrete saw version was very popular in this area but the chainsaws were for all intents were never seen .
 
If your mechanically inclined rebuild the saw . As mentioned a simple carb cleaning may be all that is required . A new plug and air filter & fuel filter would be prudent !
 
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