Max bar length for a MS461

[Wood Collector]

Whats the max bar length that a ms461 could run comfortable. Happy to run skiptooth if it will allow me to run a longer bar. Currently have a 20" on it but starting to get the odd job where a longer bar would be helpful.

 

[Benjo75]

I have run a 36 on mine even though I wouldn't leave it on there forever. It pulls it pretty good. Keep it sharp and the rakers set right. It will pull a 25 with no problem.

 

[Burnham]

Day in and out here in PNW softwood conifers, 28 inch is fine. That would be my choice. Beyond that is getting to be a stretch. 25 inch is a great match, plentiful grunt pulling that.

 

[pete mctree]

In hardwoods 25" works well & with full skip I guess you could use a 30". There is a big difference between what the saw can run and maintaining performance.

 

[Frankie]

In East Coast hardwoods a ported 461R really shines with a 25” in bar. Seems to be the sweet-spot in terms of balance and handling and production ; I’ve run it using a 32” (h.o. Oiler set to max) and it pulls / oils np with full-house chain... a stock 461 without the R package might be under-powered/oiled with that length of bar and full house chain.

 

[SkwerI]

They are typically sold here with 28" bars. That's what I have on mine.

 

[Wood Collector]

Thanks, I might get a 25" bar for it then

 

[SkwerI]

Chain length will be 84 links for the 25".

 

[lumberjack]

I have 20”, 28”, and 36” for that bar mount and wouldn’t hesitate to run any of those on my 461 or any other power head with the same mount if the situation calls for it. Back in the day I’d run a 36” on an 044, no big deal aside from on the Internet.

I only buy normal chain, not skip.

My 461 normally wears a 20”, the 660 a 28”.

 

[lxskllr]

I'd go longer than 25" if you thought it would be useful, and you don't have a bigger saw. I had 25" on my 362, and it was fine completely buried in oak. It would suck buying an expensive bar, and still coming up short.

If I were to buy a 461, I'd want it with a 25" bar as the "optimal" length for performance, a 28" for the light push, and a 32" for occasional work. For a one-off, I'd probably try my 36" bar on it(assuming my 661 didn't exist), but I'd buy a skip chain for that.

 

[pete mctree]

For the record I run a 20" in the woods & 25" for treework

 

[Burnham]

Advice from an old sawyer, now...if you do decide to push the envelope on max bar length for any given saw, you have to be patient, be willing to go slow.

Let the saw whittle away at the task, don't force it. Dig in too deep and hard, and the chain will hunt for the path of least resistance...and there lies major grief, in that you'll never achieve a straight-through kerf.

I've seen some amazing degrees of off line kerfs under those conditions. Like 12+ inches off vertical on a horizontal log of 36 inch diameter.

 

[Merle Nelson]

Wow, that's a good insight.

 

[Nutball]

I have found getting the depth gauges too low in some chains seems to amplify that tendency. Then it becomes impossible to compensate DG height for which way the chain wants to go. I've mainly found this to be true with the 1/4 .043 chain on my 2511t because I try to get the most speed out of it since it doesn't load the engine much.

I haven't run a 461, but based on how a 661 oils, I'd only run 28" max, maybe 32" full skip.

 

[BeerGeek]

My 461R came with a 25" bar, and I got the Stihl 36" ES Light bar for the bigger trees/rounds. The 36" is at the top end of it's capability, and i only run it w/half or full skip chain, and the oiler set just south of max.

 

[Treehuggn4life]

I live at 7,500 ft elevation. Longer bars really cause increased power loss up here. Even on my 661 I generally only rock the 25 inch. The 32 incher only comes out for big cottonwood stumps. Most of the time its more efficient to cut from both sides of the log using a shorter bar.

I do have a question though. Theoretically, I could increase torque by switching to a 5 hole sprocket right??? Asking for a friend.

 

[lumberjack]

Do they make 5 pin sprockets? I have an 8 on my 461 and a 7 on my 660. The smaller the sprinkler the greater tension/torque on the chain at the expense of chain speed.

 

[Nutball]

5 pin won't fit the shaft, but I've wondered about 6t 3/8, should fit most shafts as a spur, not a rim, and would be ideal for hardwood cutting especially with saws that have little torque like Stihls.

Try a farmertec 660 clutch on your 661, or an old style 660 clutch without holes in the shoes, it might help a tad being heavier.

 

[Frankie]

would be ideal for hardwood cutting especially with saws that have little torque like Stihls

STIHLS have no torque ? Why that’s Blasphemy ! Never heard of a 5-pin rim on a larger saw ... A 461 should pull a 7 pin , 25-28” bar full house chain no probs ! .... 462c hotwoods ported 32” bar full house RS 3/8 .050 .... ain’t nobody out-torquing Frankie , and I mean Nobody

 

[Nutball]

Do they make 5 pin sprockets? I have an 8 on my 461 and a 7 on my 660. The smaller the sprinkler the greater tension/torque on the chain at the expense of chain speed.

I had an old corded electric remington with a 5t lo pro sprocket. It spun the chain so slowly, but it was also gear reduced off the motor.

 

[Treehuggn4life]

I should have clarified. I don't have any issues with my 661, but my 362 struggles a bit with the altitude. Was thinkin a smaller sprocket would help.

 

[Nutball]

STIHLS have no torque ? Why that’s Blasphemy ! Never heard of a 5-pin rim on a larger saw ... A 461 should pull a 7 pin , 25-28” bar full house chain no probs ! .... 462c hotwoods ported 32” bar full house RS 3/8 .050 .... ain’t nobody out-torquing Frankie , and I mean Nobody

Um...you didn't bury all 32", so what are you trying to prove?

 

[Frankie]

... @Nutball 660 hotwoods ported 32” bar full house chain ... Bar Buried in a big maple ... ain’t nobody out torquing Frankie ; and again I mean Nobody!!!

 

[Burnham]

Roll eyes emogie needed.

 

[Nutball]

Proof of 461 burying 32" no problem requested...(provides video of ported 660 instead)