I need repair advice

B

bowleggedgoat

TreeHouser
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
40
Location
Santa Cruz CA
Hi all,
I just bought a STIHL 088 and an 046 for what I thought was a good deal. The 046 seemed like it was running really well as well as the 088, I used them for one job and they both did great. Then, I took them to a shop to get them cleaned and tuned. The shop told me today that both saws are F***ed, the 088 has a scored cylinder and bad rings and the crank shaft is about to go, the 046 is in equally bad shape in fact they said "it's on its last legs". The shop wants 2 grand to fix the saws, I told them to put the saws back together and do nothing to to them and I'll pick them up tomorrow. I have not taken apart a two stroke engine since small engine repair in high school. I don't know where to get parts, I don't know what tools I need to do this work aside from general mechanics tools. So I need some advice. If you need more info, just ask I don't know really what is pertinent or not as I am completely inexperienced in saw repair aside from very basic operations.

sos,
Alec :?
 
Saws on their last legs running well. It seems paradoxical. Do they start easily? Generally, basic tools will pretty much allow a rebuild, but Stihl has a special headed bolt that requires a tool to fit it. It might be in the tool packet if such came with the saws, or likely have to purchase from a dealer. Maybe other tool places will also carry it?
 
I would hate to think that the repair shop is trying to sell you a bunch of parts and labor. Do you trust the mechanic or owners of the place? I would certainly get a second opinion.
I agree with Jay and Stephen, some more research is needed. Run strong, start great and dont rattle? But on their last legs? I would be suspicious.
 
This is why there is a need to learn to do your own maintenance and chainsaw repair IMO. Seen to many folks getting taken advantage of.
I had a 046 with 460 tank come to me after being at 1 stihl dealer and another small engine shop. The stihl dealer wanted $700 for rebuild and the small shop was clueless on the saw he had without the tag on it. :lol: Argued with owner which cylinder he was going to order :O
The guy drove 45mins to me and in 5 mins knew what was up and what killed it.
Called him back with some extra didnt have to have goodies to through on the saw like DP muffler etc and had $100 in parts and $100 in labor for the running cutting fool with D shaped cc.

If I was going to send a saw for rebuilds I would choose Randy aka Mastermind (he is here). He does this stuff for a living. I'm just a guy having fun helping folks out sometimes. ;)

046teardown 009.JPG rebuilt046 003.JPG rebuilt046 001.JPG
 
I think more times than not on a high hour saw many dealers will talk people into buying new or at least that's been my take on it .

In the last year or so I've repaired 10 or 12 the dealers had told people were beyond repair and as far as I know they are still running just fine .

When you are talking full price on OEM parts and labor taken from a flat rate book at 65 bucks an hour it doesn't take much to equal or exceed the price of a new saw .Contrary to popular belief a saw doesn't have to be perfect to run well .
 
......I run them till they blow anyways... then my dealer will pull plug if piston is not seized , peer with flashlight for scoring....as I do not rebuild myself and as Al said it is hardly worth doing with brand new ones right on the shelf a few feet over.... when saw is truly done into garage / storage for parts no rebuild
 
There's degrees of restoration or repairs .Idealy it would be to the level of factory specs .However a lot can be done without being exactly quit as precise and extend the usable life of a saw much further than perhaps a dealer would like you to believe .

Often times for example a scorched piston can be saved by simpley sanding it off .Not perfect but enough to get rid of the high spots .If the cylinder will clean up of tramp aluminum a set of new piston rings and crankcase seals can mean years more of usable service at little cost .About the only thing you can't save is if the crankpin bearing goes out on the connecting rod .Then you have to find a complete crankshaft / rod assembley .

Keep in mind though that from the perspective of a dealer doing some of my half-fast repairs would put his reputation on the line and thus they quote repairs with all new stuff .Me I don't gaurentee anything except it will give some more usable service .What the hey if it runs for 2-3 more years and you might only have 50 -75 bucks in it then it's a good deal .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
I got the saws back yesterday. It turns out the 088 is actually an 084! I think that information alone is worth going to the repair shop. The saws are running just like they were when I took them in. The mechanic said on the 084 I need to replace one of the crank bearings because its on the outs and if it blows I'll have to do a much bigger repair. Not that replacing a crank bearing is a small repair... I'm having trouble finding aftermarket non oem parts for the 084, does anyone know where I can find a top end rebuild kit and a set of crank bearings?
 
I'm not certain if you can find aftermarket bearings for an 084 .Even if you could remember what you have here ,namely a very high priced saw.Why take the chance ?

In addition to that just because of it's size very few people would ever wear one out in a lifetime because short of PNW tall timber they don't get used that much .Fact the one I'm baby sitting in my shed has only seen very little action in 5 years and that was at a few GTG's .That's a lot of saw to drag out for the few times a size like that could be used in Ohio .
 
084 is oem on one side for sure. Usually pto clutch side is the monster. That is the side that wallers out the crankcase too. Topends new oem $300+

Piston is about the only aftermarket part I know of.

I have a set of OEM stihl rings that I wont be using.
Had 4 084 at one time.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #15
That's a good point, I think for sure I'm going to put OEM bearings in there, I guess I'm just hesitant to spend the 430 bucks bailey's wants for the top end kit. But at the same time I feel like if i'm going to rip the saw apart then I should go ahead and do the rebuild. I'll post some pics of the cylinder scoring when I get it taken apart and then maybe you guys can tell me if its beyond just a new cylinder assembly and rings and I need to go the full rebuild route.
 
I bet you can get away with just a re-ring and clean up on the topend.

baileys sound way over priced on the topend IMO. 300+ usually at decent dealers.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
hey just jumped on your chainsaw repair forum, very helpful! I think I'm gonna try to get away with what you suggest here, gonna tear it down today and see what's goin on
 
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