Hollow tree topping - barber chair

Great you can walk away after the job done!
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In my mind, deeper notch maybe would have helped, but just a crap shoot on where hinging from compared to unseen strength (if any) of hinge at that point.
>>and strengths that position depends on in chain... a real crap shoot, i mean more than normally!
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My in tree chains for this would be 4" yellow web ratchet tie downs high/low on spar and 1 on top;
tighten, knock/vibrate webbing towards ratchet with semi-truck-tire spoon (also good for leverage bar in air), retighten, rinse/repeat several times
>>see if can get spoon into any concave area to come from under web w/spoon, or pick good spot on spar to flatten for approximate same.
>>then sweat webbing tighter , by bending, relaxing so slack creeps around thru frictions, take up slack w/ratchet.
Position ratchet on side, so is not on the hit face on drop, nor on that axis of force, but rather besides it i think is easiest on ratchet.
Leave in position for final drop if suspect hollow continues low into stump too.
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But, even better was the evacuation plan;
as Mr.Miyagi said, the best way to block punch/win fight "is to no be there"
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Barber Chair always viewed at ground level, splitting up;
here we have unusual circumstance of splitting down,
(and of just outer layers like a no face peeling off with just outer rings/not whole constitution of spar, just here split too)
but still, the falling forces on hinge over ruled/trumped (yuck) the constitution of the spar.
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Great you can walk away after the job done!....
 
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  • #52
Thanks for tips on straps...wash, rinse, repeat had not occurred to me before. Positioning of ratchet mechanism consideration is good, too...thanks.

as Mr.Miyagi said, the best way to block punch/win fight "is to no be there"

hahaha...total believer in that one! :lol:
 
When using the ratchet straps, is it best to put them perpendicular to the back cut, or above & below the back cut parallel to the hinge?

1' below the lower most part of the back cut & 1' above the upper most part of the face cut?
 
When using the ratchet straps, is it best to put them perpendicular to the back cut, or above & below the back cut parallel to the hinge?

1' below the lower most part of the back cut & 1' above the upper most part of the face cut?

Straps run around pairallel to backcut,
ratchet heads perpendicular to hinge,
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position for structure/solidifying is crap shoot on what is needed by tree..
BUT, with webbing (vs.chain) muffler heat is a consideration.
So depends on when put straps in place, how hot/how close saw is;
stump side wouldn't have heat rising to like top side.
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AND, still would be safest to 'git-da-hell-outta-dodge' on top of that!
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panteraba said:
...wash, rinse, repeat...
>>mini sweat/swigs to tension/release/equalize/take up purchase.
>>thus each bend in successfully tightened area leverages even more now on bend
making even more worth while to stay rite on it: wash,rinse,repeat..
 
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  • #56
Kennie...You are the one that taught me the concept of "sweating a purchase", pulling sideways on an already tightened rigging system to get more "tightness".

I think I am using the right terms...anyway, the sideways pull to tighten is wonderful...thanks for the teaching somewhere back along the lines of sharing tree stuff.
 
Well, I'm NOT glad you're "O.K." :Xdangit, Gary... ya deserve to get smaked around a TON harder for a stupid mistake like that. :lol:

Just jokin, my good fellow... Thanks a ton for posting that up. Really informative all the way around. I thank God that in WA I really don't have to deal with very many hollow green trees. Good job swinging away before the pull. :thumbup:
 
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