I guess if you are this far the bearings might as well be replaced, since Al is right, there is no way to do this without putting some stress on them.
Once the crank is out, if the bearings are to be changed a bearing splitter must be used. They don’t always need changed but since I am this far and it is an old saw and I know the man used it a lot I will install new ones. There really is no way I know of other than like these pics show to do this without causing damage to the crank. Saw cranks are two or three piece, and in some cases five pieces, not counting the bearings or rod. A press will just fold it up, and a hammer and punch can loosen the press fit of the crank pieces, so my recommendation is to get the tools or pay someone who has them, which in the long run will usually be cheaper than buying a new crankshaft!
There are several different sizes of these and I have ended up with three to do the jobs I have gotten myself into. Select one that is about the right size to slide up under the edge of the bearing like this:
As you tighten the two bolts the separator starts sliding between the bearing and the crank and you will hear the bearing pop. Keep going until you have a good bite under the bearing:
Now put a 2 bolt puller on the bearing separator with 2 long bolts. I keep an assortment in a special box that I keep put away so I don’t use them for something else. Now use it to pull the bearing off the crank:
And all without ever getting out the hammer!!!
Once everything is clean and inspected I heat up the case with a hot air gun and the new bearings will just about fall in. I always have a driver tool that is just smaller than the outer race handy to tap it in till it is seated.
So now the new bearings are in the case:
The STIHL tools are now used in reverse with the double threaded adapters to pull the crank through the bearing on one side and then pull it through the other and join the case back together. I put a little two-stroke oil on the crank to help the bearing slide on. Make sure the gasket is in place and the rod does not get pinched between the case halves, and snug it up, drive the two dowel pins back in, torque the crankcase bolts to spec, and then see if the crank spins freely.
Once the bolts are tight the crank is tight too. This is common, and the fix is to hit the crank on both ends carefully with a dead blow hammer or plastic mallet. This releases the bearings and centers the crank, and now it spins freely.
As I have said, the tools make the job fast and easy and do it right, so if you do not have the budget or justification for the tools then consider making them or finding a dealer willing to help you out if you already have it stripped and ready.
Steve, do us some pics of the Husky tool in use so we can see how it works.