Bolting a Split Tree

[Old Monkey]

I have been doing more and more cabling and bracing, especially since switching to the dynamic cable Tree Stuff sells. Its a more affordable way to cable in this not so rich market. Anyway, I just got called by a customer and went out to look at an ash tree I pruned 5 years ago. The tree is awesome but has a significant split in the middle(which it had before and it doesn't seem changed to me). I will go back and take pictures later. The two stems that need to be bolted are 24" or less. Too big across for my 3' bit, plus I think I need to go up to 3/4 bolts. I have bits for 1/2" and 5/8" bolts and nothing for 3/4."

Has anyone here gone bigger than 3/4"? Is it worth it? So far I am thinking of buying this bit and going 3/4." I am not sure I will use this bit much, should I put the whole cost of it in the bid? RIght now I am just researching the bid and will get back to them.

 

[SkwerI]

A couple of 1/2" or 5/8" bolts spaced a few inches apart will be significantly stronger than a single 3/4" bolt.

 

[sotc]

Darin, you can buy drill extensions that bolt onto your drill a whole lot cheaper. What dynamic cable system are you using? I charge way mpre for mine as they cost me more

 

[jefflovstrom@sb]

Just a curious dumb question. If you are going dynamic and not static, why drill into the tree when ( I know,touchy),.

 

[Old Monkey]

I am open to suggestions on what the best course of action is. I am consulting the ISA cabling and bracing guide. I will try to get back there next week for some before pictures and some more accurate measurements.

My thought process on dynamic over static in this tree is that 2/3rds of the way up from the defect the branches are less than 8" in diameter and not big enough for lags or through bolts not to weaken them. Also, I lightened up the tree 5 years ago and its doing really nicely. I am going to lighten it up the laterals again, especially on the house side. Despite the split, its a strong tree and I think it can keep swaying in the breeze, strengthening its reaction wood while having just a little extra support during the heaviest wind events.

Brian, I am thinking it needs at least 3 bolts through it.

 

[pigwot]

I use my 3/4" a fair amount, but less often do we pull out the 1".
Large trees sometimes need heavy duty cables and long through bolts in the main juncture.
Here is a picture of my Argentinian friend and welder, Daniel. When visiting he made up the extension on this bit with a deep socket and a section of stainless steel rod.
The bolts were 3/4" by about 7 feet long as I recall.
A big twin trunk oak about 90 foot tall.

 

[simplypete]

I have a five foot 5/8ths you can use.

 

[Old Monkey]

That's for 1/2" bolts? I'll have to think about that, there's a lot of tree.

 

[Al Smith]

You could use rod and make a bit extension .Evidently EAB has not made it that far westward at this time .

 

[Al Smith]

Something else to consider is the material used .Plain steel is around 58,000 PSI tensile ,grade 2 . B16 alloy,chrome /moly/vanadium is 125,00 PSI about grade 5 or better .

Now how well that stuff would last a tree trunk,who knows .It would be a bitch to hit with a saw though if it were removed at a later date .

 

[simplypete]

No it's for 5/8 ths.

 

[NickfromWI]

I found this bolt for $100. Would it work?

http://10ftdrillbit.com/default.aspx

 

[Al Smith]

I made something like that out of all threaded rod and rod couplers with a cut off spade bit on the end .It was in short sections to go across an inaccessable ceiling to fish wires through floor joists .Drill ,screw on a section etc .

Now the trouble with a spade bit verses a twist drill in a deep hole is it won't clear the chips like a twist drill .Even with a twist drill on a rod you would have to drill ,pull it out to clear the chips and repeat a zillion times to get through a big tree .

With a big long ship auger though it would take a bunch of power to run a long bit . Back in my pole jockey days we used a 3/4" Milwaukee drill motor .That SOB could hurt you if it ever got away from you .You'd still have to pull it back every so often to clear the chips . I think the deepest I ever drilled was about 3 feet .

 

[simplypete]

I have had mine through just shy of it's length in willow. Found the other end by making good guess and drilling from the other side.

 

[flushcut]

Milwaukee drill motor .That SOB could hurt you if it ever got away from you

My mason buddy has an old spline drive hammer drill without a safety clutch that he calls "The widow maker".

 

[Al Smith]

Yep,old arm breaker hammer drills, hate em .I think the big one I have is a TE 85 or something like that Hilti .I have used same to punch 4.5 inch holes through concrete using a dry core drill .

Long story on the drill .Short side ,like most of my saws the drill was made of parts and pieces from several . Junk yard dawg .

 

[Old Monkey]

I agree with Al, spade bits don't clear the chips. I also think they'd heat up pretty good.

Pete, I may take you up on that bit. I need to swing by and take some measurements and some pictures. I just got back into town and have to do a bazillion bids first.

 

[stehansen]

I welded a piece of rod onto a auger drill bit and made it into a 6 footer. I think it's 13/16" and I used 3/4" all thread.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Drill bit extensions are cheap to buy and come in various lengths.

 

[sotc]

Mmmm hmmmm, I agree fully

 

[simplypete]

Here is the 5 plus foot willow with three bolts and two static wires. It split about four feet, almost to the ground. One year later doing very well and swallowing bolts.

 

[NickfromWI]

Yeah- we're gonna need some close ups of that bad boy...

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Nice!

 

[Burnham]

Big tree! Pretty, from a distance. Too bad it's a willow...er, sorry, maybe tree bigotry reflects badly on me, but there you have it....

 

[flushcut]

Don't feel bad B I am all for Willer hating.