SkwerI
Treehouser
Cory, the reason it helps is because sometimes you can have a saw that idles while you're holding it but stalls out when you hang it on your saddle to move 2 steps.
My climbing saws are always set at a fast idle , but not fast enough for the chain to turn.Cory, the reason it helps is because sometimes you can have a saw that idles while you're holding it but stalls out when you hang it on your saddle to move 2 steps.
You can get a little carried away with WOT settings .It's a good starting point but how it runs in the wood tells the tale .when you hang it on your saddle to move 2 steps.
Perhaps it would be best to intentionally tune all chainsaws to automatically quit running if left to idle for more than 10 seconds? :roll:

I get paid to do treework, he gets paid to fix saws, seems a good fit to me 
Perhaps it would be best to intentionally tune all chainsaws to automatically quit running if left to idle for more than 10 seconds? :roll:


Not really .You know after a while how the thing should cut .If it bogs in the cut odds are it's an RCH lean .If it just won't get the R's it could be a tad too fat .Hard to explain just something you get a feel for .You guys mentioned adjusting the saw in the wood; does that mean that you actually turn the screws while the saw is cutting ? I've heard of doing this, but never seen anyone do it.

I think a tach is in my future.