The 'hardhead juniors' have a steel plug instead of the plate covering the entire back. I really like them as they are lighter and still pound in well. Bailey's doesn't carry them anymore, but I think that they are still being made.
On the hardheads, I'm curious to know what holds the plate to the back of the wedge? Are there some studs welded to it that maybe get epoxied or something to holes in the plastic? I've been wanting to make my own.
Maybe boring and setting a wedge on a set back tree would best be done on the face side, boring all the way through then putting a wedge in from the back. It would require the tree being large enough to not comprise the strength holding the tree from setting back hard. Perhaps then less hinge...
Right. I have made some wood wedges for people out of our hard Elm, Zelkova. Lil' presents because I had some good material left over, and quickly done on the bandsaw. Following that generally are two stages, looking beat up, then not seeing them any more.
It occurs that I could make something like that out of wood, a steel band around the banging end. Hard Elm would be a good choice. Wonder how long it would last?
One problem with running a G is that the sprockets are a rare commodity. Mine still has the original one on there, a saw I inherited when my tree cutting mentor passed away. It's for the half inch chain that came with it. Long cutters, so still lots of use left, and the sprocket is barely...
I have an 090G that gets used on rare occasion, but I much more break it out to have people try and lift it. :lol: I'd trade it for an 090 less gear drive, in similar mint condition. 8)
Canadianclimber, what would you say is the max size of tree that those felling bars have application for? Obviously lean would be a factor, but generally speaking. Thanks.
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