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Make for weak lumber. Probably warp like hell during drying. The best use for that wood is in the living tree.

It looks to me like you could have been cutting more and pulling less. :P Back seat driver.....

Chris's too much force that he mentions, seems to be a pretty common thing in tree work. Not only pulling trees, but crane picks, especially tops, some operators want to yank them into orbit. Not so friendly to the guy in the tree, or to the boom either. Slow and easy is nice. Takes...

I've used the step dutcman, the video was impressive, I thought. It was about the third try where I actually noticed the tree swung a little. :rockon:

There is also the 1:1 rule, where a trunk diameter of 12", (measured up to front of hinge) will get 1" of crown forward movement per foot of tree height, for every 1" thickness of wedge. As the diameter increases, the amount of lift decreases. The exact formula to figure the amount of lift is...

Thanks, Squish. Right, Stig, Cryptomeria. People mistakenly call it 'Japanese Cedar', but it's really a Cypress. Conventional face with a snipe, is my recollection.

Thanks, is there another way to do it?

Yep, I was thinking to rope myself in to the base when cutting, then thought better.

Yeah, a little scary place to work, roots were exposed on the face of the drop off.

I found this other photo too. It was a high cut, but it was right on the edge of a drop with no place for me to go in case, so I wanted to get out of there before the tree was completely pulled over. Heavy limbs off the back too, supplementing the lean. Seemed to work according to plan, but...

Not exactly sure if you would call this Burnham style or not, but it worked well. Lots of back lean over a cliff with a roof below. Straightened it up with a two ton endless cable puller while cutting.

I would think that the environmentalists would demand the hide of someone who starts a forest fire, all that carbon getting released into the atmosphere.

I first learned about using a high back cut in the 'Fundamentals' text, and take the liberty of quoting: "In pull-trees with side lean, a beefy hinge with a high back cut will help carry them over better while minimizing side drift". This seems very much the reason why Stig mentioned that he...

I'm under the impression that a high back cut and a thicker hinge is just what is needed with back leaning trees that are being pulled to the lay, at least with the Pines that I frequently use the method with. I can extrapolate that it would also be the case with a lot of hardwoods. Many...

VO backed with beer, a perfect combo! I learned that in a Watsonville bar, so hometown that the bartender had never been out of the county in his whole life, he said.

I think most guys do. A lot of people in one manual trade or another, will think to themselves, "after doing it all day, just what I want to do is go home and talk about it". With tree work, that often isn't the case, talking about it is cool. :)

Greg, how do you normally make those gaps at the hinge, could you please explain the sequence of cuts. Thanks.

I don't dwell on it so much time when cutting a tree, pretty much just do it....more gut feeling going on at location, with maybe some pause to consider at times. At the forum it's another thing, with the luxury of time. Probably like that for most.

I guess what is confusing me in this thread, is that a high back cut for stump shot, is also being cited as a method to give the hinge more time to work (I think). I understand the carry over, but my thinking is that stump shot, and the strength of the hinge, are really two different subjects...

Felling trees is a fine art, can't get too good at it...that's why I like these threads too. If Jerry and Burnham could produce a brain implant with their knowledge and experience contained within, I'd have it installed.