I rarely "drive" a wedge when bucking, if i use one i just push it in as a place holder, that way i'm not creating a new bind where theres still wood holding. Makes sense in my mind:dur:
Andy, another problem is committing the whole bar to a cut that may have multiple points of pressure or twist. This method often releives these different points or at least gives you a chance to see and react to a bind before your stuck
My diagram sucks but with a log supported at both ends, this is an end view of how i would buck it. With my saw on top, I would reach over and buck the far side (red) first. Then i would cut about 1/3 of the way down from the top (blue). then i would pull the tip of my bar back and cut down...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.