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The butterfly is designed for 3 directional stress...I was taught the knot in 1969 at a Ranger mountaineering training course...it was a midline knot for moving groups of people across a rock face with all being linked to the same rope...you tied it around your waist. I have never had a...

Midline knot for me is always a single or double butterfly...and I use a pulley if I really want an efficient (stronger) pull. I usually use a z-rig system. If I need more, my next option is a rope hoist that gives me 4:1. I have started using wedges more and more...I am becoming a believer...