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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KMnnVt2owxc" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe> took another 12-16" off this one before grinding ... 3' would have been a hassle

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QQ8syV5LVOE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe> Keeping the notch in the straight grain and still making the flush cut easy to handle... much of it depemnds on what kind of equipment...

For us, we are either loading logs in our own trucks with the skid steer or on larger jobs with lots of big wood, we're stacking the logs for pick up ... making the falling cut low enough for stump grinding without a flush cut saves the trouble of handling the loose piece from the flush cut...

of course, which can be A LOT and often then ends up in the back cut being over-cut and as soon as it bypasses the notch the weight of the tree crushed the no-existent hinge and sits on the bar and traps it.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/HM52FXtF9LY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> At the end of this video there is a quick explaination showing how stumpshot can casue the hinge to thin out on one side and thicken it up on...

That's funny... I thought you were a self proclaimed expert on reading the grain of a tree... anyone that is paying attention to their stumps knows that one of the problems with a high backcut is that you'll lose one side of the hinge's width with any twist in the grain..

That's funny Stig, Now you are posting pics showing the "DANGERS" of a high back cut.. That almost sounds like you are agreeing with my earlier statement that a high back cut can get you in a lot of trouble in hardwoods, rather than claiming that "longer fibers have more holding ability".. then...