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They should have springs on them, the piece that has the zerk on it will move outwards as it's filled. You can't really overfill them, it'll just push grease out or shoot off the cap.

They even have auto grease feeders with springs on industrial equipment, and spring loaded oilers. Basically grease is cheap compared to repairing the equipment so it's ideally completely full of grease at all times, including on assembly. Wheel bearings normally don't take that much grease to...

I would wait till you have the new caps at least, and hopefully you don't need new bearings or even worse a spindle. You'll need to pull the cotter pin and unscrew the castle nut to get the bearings off, note how it comes apart so you can put it all back. Once you clean them up and get them...

Yup, they're just pressed in there

Get some bearing buddy caps with a zerk, then replace the cap with the bearing buddy ones. Then you dont have to pull it apart to grease it, which is the normal way. Since those haven't been touched in years you might wanna pull them apart, clean them, then repack them.

I've brazed them with success, and you can often find them online as well sometimes. Only use a grinder when cleaning, you don't want to spread the graphite from the cast all over the surface since it prevents stuff from sticking. I wouldn't use jbweld as my first option since it gets pretty...

This. Add one if it's not there.

I'm from Illinois, it's everywhere here :lol: I've worked in quite a few ethanol plants too, so i don't mind too much, thanks guys! A chainsaw revs wayyyy higher than your chipper motor, so i think it's more justified to spend the money and run only the best. But you likely don't buy only...

The old school glass bowl ones have a shutoff built in.

Having an old school glass bowl strainer/separator right after the tank does wonders. Had some gas sitting in the welding machine for too long, would run on full choke only, so i drained the bowls and added some naptha in it, 2 weeks later when i fired it up again it's purring like normal.

Dunno, maybe corten steel? Or galvanized? They likely have cathodic protection on it, that can make a huge difference too.

Wait, you guys don't have worms there? As far as the steel in chipper blades being harder that's correct but there's more to it than that. The steels have pretty different requirements, and chainsaw chain is subjected to very demanding conditions, almost bordering on extreme. It's gotta be...

A chuck and duck can be found cheaper than a baby one, and will actually chip some stuff in a hurry. Super simple machine, so it's pretty easy to maintain, and as far as safety goes it's the same as the baby ones, big spinny thing with knives hooked to a motor. I got mine, a 12" chipmore owned...

If you're touching up with a file i don't see how you would be changing the angle, but you'll need to hold it flat on the bevel and the back and be particular about it. A knife sharpener likely yes, but not enough to really matter i wouldn't think. When they sharpen they'll be taking a deep...

Definitely machine shop.

I'm kinda surprised a file would cut a chipper knife, i could see a stone but i would think a file would just skate on it. I think that's a pretty fine finish file, if files have a number that's a fine file, the higher the number the finer the cut, and the length determines coarseness too so 10"...

I'm so happy i have a cnd lol

You'll need it warm to drain it properly so....

Simply Google it. And you'll find that flushing a hydraulic system ranges from insane care and specialty tools like a power flushing setup designed to cause turbulence to scrub the walls of everything, complete disassembly and cleaning by hand, or simply just draining it, break the lines and...

What does it call for in the manual?