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I wedge and pull. You could theoretically cut some wood wedges/ chocks/ shims for a big backleaner than comes off double wedges. Jed, you can put a munter on a big biner on the pull line, and keep you spurs and lanyard active. Lower with one hand on the rope, work the flipline down with the...

More strain on the hinge, too. A shallower face gives more distance from hinge to the rear of the tree, producing better leverage.

chopping the bark off helps on thick barked trees. You can see what's going on with the wood...compression, crushing (especially good on dead firs with Popcorn Fungus/ Pouch Fungus (someone help me here) that have some sap rot. Not bad to cut the bark on the side of fir hinges when wedging...

You can't stack three wedges on each other. The one I broke, incidentally, is a barbed wedge. The barbs and grooves prevent sliding around, which is good. The problem is you can't pull them back out with a little side to side loosening. Wedges being in good condition, no mushrooming, and...

That was pretty vertical, Stig. The other day I had a hard back leaner. I took pictures of the tree that needed it, as an after thought, not sequential as a step by step. Jed didn't follow from the poor pictures from the other day. I had time yesterday.

Adding captions now... Jed asked for a play by play on stacking three wedges for a hard back-leaner. I used this technique the other day to pound over a backleaning Doug-fir, a great hinging tree. I've pounded over dead backleaners a bunch at State Parks. Basic face cut. Bore through face-cut...