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Genius, Butch. I'm somewhat low-fi. Barely use bookmarks.

You method is a lot more effective. Being able to stand far, far back can add a lot to accuracy, as you mentioned, in certain situations like an obstructed view. Having to go that far away can be ineffective for a lot of residential settings, due to a fence/ building/ etc. From what I foggily...

Thank you, Burnham for clearing that up. I haven't used it much. Are you familiar with the method of standing a 'chain' length, (66' right?), and measure, maybe using the other scale, degrees? Similar idea of measuring to the base and top. Looking down at a negative angle at the base, meant...

Regarding "Will it fit"? I take pull rope stretched from the nearest object-to-avoid to the butt of the tree, put a overhand on a bight (easiest). Have it tied on my climb line. Pull it up. If the end of the rope reaches me before the knot comes off the ground, there is some space. If you pull...

I bet a clinometer and a tape measure to be the most accurate, inexpensive tool, if you can get the appropriate distance away. possibly 66', one 'chain', IIRC. Someone help me out. The clino can compensate for looking uphill/ down hill or a combo of uphill and downhill to sight the top and base...

There will be an angle of shooting factor in with this type of calibration. If you always shoot the same angle, it will work, otherwise, adjust in your head.

Count your paces (left, right) in 20' at a regular stride. 3.5 paces for me in 20', 7 in 40', etc. combining the stick trick or being able to eyeball 45* (from felling and checking your estimation, you calibrate your eye. ) 150' throwline doubled over = 75'. if you have to add on 50' of...