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You need a flap for chips behind the grinding wheel, I'd guess.

http://www.galeton.com/vibrastop-anti-vibration-gloves-black-gray/12080-product/ for with the AM, or any stumper.

Its way portable, for a city operation where space is a commodity, jobsite parking and shop parking.

A lot more mass in that bigger disc! That should help.

Ahh, good tips from an experienced grinder. Thankfully, my grinding time is limited, but I'm coming around to the idea of standing around fiddling levers for money more and more. Even ground a few at my rental for money off the rent.

I think that as engines/ hp are smaller, that optimizing tricks help. I think that people have talked about working down the grain, attack it radially, rather from one side of the stump toward the other. Sharper teeth are more important with low hp. Cleaning around the stump to remove rocks...

Nice. I think you'll want to shield the belt and sheave area to prevent debris from running in there.

I think that there is a gauge for setting those teeth. Allows you to vary the depth when you have many teeth. Remember, balance (which I bet you will).

I mean that if you can drive up a self-propelled grinder to the street tree stump, horsepower will win. Poor access, like planters, I'd imagine your best machine for the job is the AM.

Street trees point away from an AM. The bigger the machine the better, so long as it will fit the space, and the rig/ parking. Retensioning belts to appropriate spec after stretching made a big difference on my Rayco SuperJr. I'd rather have a smaller machine in better condition than a...