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Tell me what you need on the 020T and I'll check my bone bucket.

Gary, there is no possible way for the crank bearings to be packed with grease unless somebody goes through a lot of trouble to intentionally pack them with grease. Al was suggesting that I might have done that (there's no other possible explanation) and I've stated several times that I did not...

Well nobody snuck into my shop and filled the crank bearings with grease. In fact there is absolutely no way to even do that unless you split the case and packed the bearings by hand, or pulled out the seals and tried to pack the bearings from one side with grease. The tiny little bit of grease...

The bearings were never packed with grease.

Are you in the right thread, Al?

You're still getting something out of it. Homey don't play dat. ;) Dave Shepard is buying it and I'll split it with you.

Dave, your question was never answered. I was hoping a donor crankcase would show up but it's not looking that way. You want to make an offer on this thing?

Andy, do you mean a bull dyke or the regular kind? And how will she be able to grab the screw any better than me using the pliers? :P

I was trying to answer your question. I personally am calling it quits on this particular saw (unless Bill comes up with a donor saw with a good bottom end). At this point I can't do any more.

At this point I don't know why the bottom end is bad. I couldn't feel any slop in the bearing but it ate up the new seal in less than a minute, so the crank obviously isn't turning true. It is past the point where I would strip it for parts and/or use it to rebuild another carcass with a known...

Well dang. I think this is my first documented saw repair failure, but it was still a good learning experience. I just wish I could have gotten it running after all that. Since I failed at the repair as well as my choice in crappy replacement parts, I can't bring myself to charge Bill anything...

I'm aware of the blue rev limited coil, but thanks for mentioning it. :thumbup: Unfortunately I never got that far. Looks like my original assessment that the crank bearings were shot was correct. Once again I have never seen a saw with bad crank seals but good bearings. The seals do not go out...

This afternoon's efforts: <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/UOCRb2MdiD0?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed...

Kevin's envelope with the crank seals showed up today. I've been tied up with the bucket truck axle and a couple other projects around the house but I'll try to get on it this weekend.

I never got a reply from Scott at chainsawr, either. I guess my email got 'lost' as well. :( Magnus, I'll take your well experienced advice into consideration. :)

Still waiting on the envelope from Kevin. I have the clutch side seal out, I will probably test run it before pulling the flywheel and changing the far side crank seal. If the clutch side began leaking due to the heat from the broken oiler then there isn't any reason to mess with the other side.

It's cool, Bill. A learning experience for many of us. I've posted a few saw repairs on the forum like this and it's always worked out well. I'm not exactly an expert but with some perseverance and all the helpful input from the forum I'll eventually get it right.

I got both seals. I know they are different from one side to the other. The old seal did NOT spin in the case but the new seal was sloppy enough to fall out if I touched it with a screwdriver.

You rock, Kevin. :D

Bailey's is out of stock, which means they won't ever carry it again if any of my previous backorders are any indication. I still have a 32" GB bar on backorder with them from 3 years ago. :roll: I'll look up Amick's and bookmark it. I'll need something to replace my Bailey's bookmark. No luck...